On the one hand, I’m bummed I didn’t take pictures of everyone I visited.  On the other hand, I tried to stay in the moment more on this trip rather than document every detail.  I have a few photos of friends, though, that I’d like to share.  Missing are…way too many people to list!  I send all of you, though, my LOVE – I look forward to seeing you again soon!

Lee captaining his boat – my first adventure on this vessel

 

Judi and Taffi – Judi and I have known each other for over 40 years!

 

Sunset at Qualicum Bay with Pamela

 

Steph and John demonstrating how retirees work hard!

 

Cottage Grove, Oregon, boasts six historic covered bridges many of which are along the nearly sixteen mile Row River National Recreation Trail.  I didn’t walk the full railroad trail, nor did I see all the the historic bridges.  However, I did see…

Currin Bridge, 1925

 

Mosby Creek Bridge, 1920

 

Stewart Bridge, 1930

 

I don’t know the name of this bridge on the Row River Trail, but it definitely retains its railroad roots.

 

A peek at the Sundial Bridge, Redding, California

With a choice between high temperatures inland or cooler weather on the coast, I chose to drive up the coast of California and Oregon before turning eastward to Portland.  From there, I explored two big islands, Bainbridge and Vancouver, and a few smaller islands, Denman, Hornby, Swan.  Thus, I have MANY photos of water!

Sunset at Qualicum Bay

 

Sunset from Judi & Lee’s backyard, Bainbridge Island

 

Niagara Waterfall, Goldstream Provincial Park, Vancouver Island

 

Little Qualicum Falls, Upper and Lower, Vancouver Island

 

Englishman River Falls, Vancouver Island

 

Views of Ocean and Bays

 

Sacramento River, Redding, California

 

Ferries, Hornby Island (British Columbia) and Swan Island (Oregon)

Goats on the roof!!!

Yes, this is a BIG DEAL!  They really eat the grass and hang out on the roof of the Old Country Market, located on the Alberni Highway between Parksville and Qualicum Beach on Vancouver Island.  From May through October, goats live on the roof!

Although Sheila and I hung out with the dogs (Taffi, Indy, Timmy, Benny) of friends, I only have a photo of Taffi.

In Pamela’s car, Sheila jumped from the way back to the back seat, looking quite crowded but also happy to be closer to us.

In Victoria, we left Sheila with Timmy and Benny, along with Pamela’s mother and son, and rode our e-bikes around town.  On the bike trail, I found this sign.

Flora

So much beauty in nature!

Although Sheila and I didn’t hike as much as I thought I might, we enjoyed hiking in…

Florence, Oregon

Forest Park, Portland, Oregon

Bainbridge Islands, Washington

Mount Douglas Park, Victoria, British Columbia

Pacific Rim National Park, Vancouver Island, British Columbia

Hornby Island, British Columbia

 

Wandering around Swan Island Dahlia Farm, near Portland, with Steph and John created a visual treat.

“Public Art” is a big category!  I see murals, sculptures, and knickknacks as public art.

On my drive from Victoria, where Pamela lives, to Little Qualicum Falls Provincial Campground, Pamela gave me a big list of places to explore. One of my favorites, the town of Chemainus, hosts murals upon many of the village’s walls.  Viewers can follow painted yellow footprints to help find various murals.

I found murals elsewhere, including Portland…

…and Redding…

Sculpture, another type of public art, abounds.  Here are some from Seattle…

…and in front of the Parliament building in Victoria…

…and on a street in Victoria…

and Malahat Skywalk on Vancouver Island.

I crossed under this tunnel, painted with graffiti, at Goldstream Provincial Park to view Niagara Falls (Vancouver Island’s version!).

Pamela and I walked around Tofino, Pacific Rim National Park, Denman Island, and Hornby Island, where we saw…

We also saw the magnificent sandcastles competing at Parksville Park!

For three weeks, Sheila, Addie, and I headed up to Vancouver Island to visit my friend Pamela, whom I met five years ago at the Great Synagogue in Budapest.  The adventure included spending wonderful time with friends and family in Dublin, Portland, and Bainbridge Island.

I decided to not include a day-to-day itinerary or travelog for this 3,128 mile trip.  Rather, I’ve grouped my photos by topic:

A few reflections now that I’ve been home for nearly 24 hours…

  • I love traveling!  AND I love my home!  Although Addie is quite comfortable, my home seems almost luxurious in comparison. A big sink, dishwasher, washing machine, clothes dryer, large shower, TVs, reliable internet, couch for cuddling Sheila… I am so fortunate to have both the fun of Addie and the privilege of a wonderful home.
  • Sheila is a great traveler.  She’s flexible, friendly, and fond of exploring.  I hit the jackpot when I adopted her last October.
  • I’m bummed I didn’t take more photos of all of the friends I hung out with during this trip!  I know I tried to stay in the moment and not document every detail, but I wish I had photos of the amazing people I got to see.  Next time, be ready for me to snap your photo!

Anchor:
The anchor for this trip was Phase 2, spending a week with Ben, Kait, Greyson, and Emmett in Dublin and at Kilkea Castle. First and foremost, I LOVE spending time with them! Forging silver rings with Greyson, chasing and snuggling Emmett, exploring Glendalough and Kilkenny with Ben, and chatting and laughing with Kait – definitely highlights of this adventure! Deciding that I wanted to spend some time pre- and post-Dublin/Kilkea, I chose the next phases of this Irish expedition around this anchor.

Irish people:
So fun! So friendly! So talkative! Nearly everyone I met – service people, pub customers, fellow travelers – were helpful, kind, and entertaining. The only somewhat “surly” ones that I had contact with were a few of the younger people working at tourist locations. I’m sure they would much prefer to be elsewhere. Everyone else, though, including most of the other younger people, were terrific.

Music and dancing:
If I had the energy, I could have listened to music and danced every night! As it was, I often went to sleep before the music began. Regardless, I had several nights of music – and a couple nights of dancing. All great fun!

Transportation:
I avoided driving a car for several reasons. First, as a solo traveler I didn’t want to navigate and focus on driving on the left-hand side of the road. Second, I prefer looking out the window and seeing the landscape rather than keeping my eyes on the road or on a map. During this adventure, I took taxis, busses, and trains – and Hillwalk Tours booked rides for me when my accommodation was not near my trail. Also, for my Aran Island excursion, I traveled by ferry and rode an e-bike. Only once was the transportation not as smooth or as quick as I would have liked. When I arrived in Ennis, instead of waiting two hours for the next bus (reduced scheduled on Easter Sunday), I treated myself to a taxi to Liscannor. Learning public transit systems frequently necessitates focus and frustration; in Ireland, I found the systems quite easy and clear.

Beauty:
The natural beauty of this country delights me. Although there are some of the rolling hills with grass and sheep that I imagined, there is also a much more rugged beauty and gorgeous shores, lakes, and rivers. All of this coupled with the rustic archaeological monuments made for a visual feast.

Politics:
Maybe because I started this adventure in Belfast or because politics intrigues me, but I can’t separate the political from the non-political in Ireland. The Troubles/Conflict (depending on one’s perspective) combined with Brexit have created, in my opinion, a tense situation which could erupt under certain conditions. It worries me.

Highlights:
After every trip, I’m asked what was your favorite part or top three favorite parts? That’s always so hard to answer! Below, I share some of my most treasured moments.

Phase 1:
It’s true that I learned a lot during my political murals tour and loved exploring the Giants Causeway. Nevertheless, the most fun I had was Saturday night at a pub listening to trad music and dancing! Since I have no photos from that evening, instead I’m sharing a pic from the Giants Causeway, my first excursion.

Phase 2:
Forging silver rings with Grey, singing (including creating a nana verse for Wheels on the Bus!) with Emmett, day tripping to Kilkenny and Glendalough with Ben, and watching the joy on Kait’s face when she held an owl – these are four of my favorite things!

Phase 3:
The natural beauty of the Burren, along with the sense of accomplishment in completing the trek, created powerful moments for me. Unplugging from podcasts, books, and music turned this walk into a spiritual journey.

Phase 4:
Wandering around Galway, Connemara, and Inis Mór with my camera and lots of relaxed time allowed me to focus on my photography skills. In fact, throughout this trip, I’ve had a blast taking the time to capture images that grab me. Every evening, often in lieu of going out and listening to music, I enjoyed reviewing and editing photos and updating my blog. It’s been one of my cherished memories from my Ireland adventure.

For my final excursion of this adventure, I hopped on the Aran Islands shuttle from Galway City to the ferry, about an hour away, in Rossaveel.  On the ferry, I was in for a wild ride!  Today’s weather was the best it’s been in quite some time (thanks to Storm Kathleen!); I wonder how bumpy the ride is usually out to the Aran Islands!

I visited the largest of the islands, Inis MĂłr, touring around the sites on a rented e-bike.  What a cool way to see the island!  Upon turning in my bike, I walked to the little village and sat in a pub with four locals for some lunch and a pint.  No need for my book or cellphone to keep me occupied while eating – these four gentlemen were quite entertaining!  I learned a couple very important lessons.  First, pick a grey horse to place, especially if it’s wearing the number 5.  Also, in Ireland a pint is 20 ozs, a shot is 1.2 ozs, and a glass of wine is 6 ozs.  🤣

My first view of the island from the ferry dock

 

I saw horses, donkeys, and cattle on my bike ride

 

This time, I leap-frogged with two couples from Toronto so we traded photo taking

 

Cairns!

 

A mix of old and new houses on the island

 

Old home

 

I parked my bike and hiked up to DĂşn Aonghasa, the largest of the prehistoric stone forts of the Aran Islands. Perilously perched on a sheer sea-cliff, DĂşn Aonghasa defiantly faces the Atlantic Ocean.

 

Sitting safely away from the cliff’s edge for this photo op

 

Two young women from a group of college-aged students from South Africa decided to cool off a bit

 

While waiting for the ferry to return us to Galway, a man pulled out his accordion and this couple danced (click on the photo for a short video)

 

A few minutes later, the man changed his shoes and treated us to Irish dancing (click on photo for the video)

 

Upon finishing my Connemara tour late yesterday, I began exploring Galway City by wandering around with no particular destination in mind.  Today, I followed an audio tour which highlighted some of the key sites in the city.  Tour guide Derek Spillane provided clear walking instructions and intriguing stories.

The city has grown on me.  When I first arrived, I was a bit unimpressed.  Albeit, I had finished the Burren Way the day before and traveled by three busses to get here.  I think, therefore, that I was perhaps a tad travel tired and weary.  Hey, it happens!  🙂

My walk started both days from Eyre Square

 
Irish writer Oscar Wilde and the Estonian writer Eduard Vilde sitting on a bench – although they never actually met

 

The Latin Quarter where most tourists hang out – and where I might have had a beverage…or two…

 

So many murals!  Two of my favorites.

 

 

Walking along the canal with the Cathedral in the distance

 

The lighting in this Cathedral impressed me – and the Cathedral itself was beautiful yet understated – pretty and amazing

 

After the Cathedral, I continued on the canal trail

 

 

 

Old wall of the city

 

The reason Ireland is so green…

 

To escape the rain, I stepped over Remy, the St. Bernard guarding Monroe’s Tavern

 

Monroe’s Tavern

Sometimes I don’t make it easy on myself.  Tonight, after a FABULOUS day exploring Connemara, I realized I had 144 photos to review! 🤣

This morning with five other intelligent, kind, and fun tourists, Mike – our driver and tour guide – took us in a small bus to the region of Connemara.  We stopped at multiple places to take pictures, discuss the flora and fauna, and learn about the lifestyle and culture of those living in this region of Ireland. 

What surprised me the most is how my expectation of Ireland is so different from the reality.  Before this trip, I thought Ireland = green rolling hills.  Although I’ve seen these, I’ve also seen almost desert-like landscapes.  In some locales, the soil is so thin, nothing grows except, perhaps, a bit of grass.  However, the sheep and cows eat the meager grass, leaving brown, almost barren, vistas.

Connemara has many lakes, all of which ultimately flow into Galway and the Atlantic Ocean

 

Green – but not the rolling hills I incorrectly thought I’d see throughout Ireland 🙂

 

Connemara is Irish for “Inlets of the Sea”

 

Connemara ponies, a specialized breed, are known for their athleticism, versatility and good disposition

 

Although we had the option to spend three hours hiking Diamond Hill in Connemara National Park, the high winds, a remnant of Storm Kathleen, convinced the six of us to choose Option 2:  Kylemore Abbey

“Kylemore Castle was built in the late 1800s by Mitchell Henry MP, a wealthy businessman, and liberal politician. Henry poured his life’s energy into creating an estate that would showcase what could be achieved in the remote wilds of Connemara. Today Kylemore Abbey is owned and run by the Benedictine community who have been in residence here since 1920.” [https://www.kylemoreabbey.com/about]

 

Kylemore Victorian Walled Gardens

 

 

Castle grounds

 

 

In Kylemore’s Gothic Church, marble pillars from each of the four marble regions of Ireland:  green from Connemara, black from Kilkenny, red from Cork and white from Tyrone

 

Kylemore apple pie with warm custard – recommended by multiple people!

 

Hahaha!

 

On the Quiet Man Bridge, used in the 1960’s John Wayne movie of the same name

Phase 4 of my Ireland adventure blew in with named storm Kathleen.  Rain and lots of gusty winds solidified my resolve for today to be a “zero day” – a day of rest and relaxation.

After a wonderful breakfast at my inn in Corofin, the proprietor dropped me off in the village to catch my bus to Ennis.  Soon, my bus to Galway arrived.  In Galway, I figured out how to get a physical bus pass and which bus line to take from Galway to Salthill, the outlying beach community where I’m staying.

The Nest Boutique Hostel, my home for Phase 4, includes a friendly atmosphere, warm common area (where I’m sitting as I type this), a cafe, a kitchen, and my single en-suite bedroom.  Perfect!

Sipping tea in the hostel’s cafe while firming my plans for this phase

 

I ventured out in the wind, thinking I might walk the promenade

 

This little woman’s family helped her to their car so she wouldn’t blow away

 

Deciding the wind was too strong, I popped into another cafe for more tea and a cookie…then returned to my hostel for a nap.  Following my nap and a pint and chowder at a pub, I walked down to the promenade at sunset to be greeted by a rainbow.

 

Salthill is renowned for its captivating promenade and numerous sandy beaches, creating a fun environment – when it’s not stormy

 

Sunset from Salthill promenade 🙂

Sitting in a cafe, sipping tea, resting my legs and toes, relaxing a bit…

Decided to write down my reflections on my trek.  🙂

Day hikes:
When considering hiking the Burren Way, my initial excitement turned to mild concern. However, when I broke it down from 70 miles total to five nice day hikes, I felt much more confident. I’ve completed solo day hikes throughout the US and Europe, so doing five consecutive day hikes seemed much more manageable than one massive hike.

Navigation:
I used three tools to navigate the trail. First, I used Hillwalk Tours’ detailed route notes. Next, I set my Fitbit to measure in kilometers rather than miles. This way, if the route notes said turn left in 350 meters, I could quickly gauge the distance by using my Fitbit. Finally, Hillwalk provided the route on the app GAIA, which uses GPS technology to guide the user. Whenever I was a bit confused or unsure, I’d check GAIA to confirm I was on the proper trail.

Varied scenery:
What a vast variety of landscapes I saw! Cliffs, karst limestone, hazel trees, mossy rocks, plateaus, rivers, turloughs, lakes, flowers breaking out of their winter slumber… So much to see! I thought Ireland would be mainly rolling green hills. I saw them, of course, and much much more!

Weather:
As I type this in the cafe connected to my hostel in Salthill, Galway, Storm Kathleen blows frantically while dumping buckets of rain on the already soaked land. I was SO FORTUNATE to have almost perfect weather while trekking. Even with a bit of wind and rain for the first half of yesterday’s hike, for the most part, I had cool yet dry and calm weather.

People:
After the crowds of Belfast and Dublin, I saw so few people on my hike (other than Cliffs of Moher, of course!). The people I did meet along the trails, at my hotels, in the pubs were all wonderful to chat with. Some were tourists, many were locals, all were kind, friendly, and helpful.

Gear:
I’m trying to think if there’s anything I wish I brought that I didn’t bring… Perhaps a better raincoat…? Mine is rain resistant to a point. After a bit, water seeps through. Although I brought a poncho, I found the pockets in my raincoat much more practical. Also, when the weather necessitated it, I could easily enclose my camera in my coat and retrieve it once the shower ended.  As for gear I brought that I wish I left at home, I only used one trekking pole, which kept my other hand free to grab my camera, hold the route notes, etc.  I didn’t use the compass or binoculars which live in my backpack.  I loved having a baseball cap for general conditions and a knit hat and gloves for those cold mornings and late afternoons.  And gaiters!  OMG!  My waterproof hiking boots coupled with gaiters made the mucky mud much easier to traverse!

Photos:
Now, to try to pick out my favorite photo from each day… 🙂  I think the five I selected showcase the variety and beauty, both natural and humanmade, that I experienced on my journey.

Day 1:  Liscannor to Doolin

 

Day 2:  Doolin to Fanore

 

Day 3:  Fanore to Ballyvaughan

 

Day 4:  Ballyvaughan to Carran

 

Day 5:  Carran to Corofin

During the past five days, I’ve walked over 70 miles!

Today’s trek, although the shortest (“only” 13.25 miles), was also the rainiest.  I guess the weather fairies decided I needed to experience the rain and wind of Ireland to make my hike complete.

The vista at the start of my final day of trekking – so many colors!

 

Turlough – along with my little yellow companion

(A turlough is a seasonal or periodic water body found mostly in limestone karst areas of Ireland, west of the River Shannon)

 

Hazel woodlands

 

Triple walled cliff fort of Cahercommaun

 

Creevagh Wedge Tomb (I had to climb over three rock walls and through a field to find it)

 

Parknabinnia Wedge Tomb – located on the side of the road in Commons North

 

Yep, it was quite windy today (click on the photo for a quick video)

 
Chatting with a local woman in the pub tonight, she told me these are goats and not sheep 🙂

 

Ah!  A waterfall flowing into Lough Inchiquin!  (Click on photo for a link to my waterfall video.)

 

 
The end of the trail!

 

Seventy miles completed and still smiling!

Today’s 13 mile hike from Ballyvaughan to Carran was so much EASIER than yesterday’s trek from Fanore to Ballyvaughan!  Not only did the weather, although overcast, stay dry and mild, but also the climbs and trail were so much smoother than yesterday’s.

The scenery was rocky at times with lots of big boulders

 

Abundant limestone

 

Limestone landscape dotted with windswept trees

 

The reason I take off my boots before entering my hotel and put them on just before exiting

 

“Bog road” with black shale rock in the trail

 

Peat, a scarce commodity in the Burren, is dried and used as heating material

 

The lush green slopes of the small valley of Lissylisheen

 

A much less muddy trail – rock walls on the sides

 

6,000-year-old Poulnabrone Portal Tomb, the most famous dolmen in Ireland

 

Flags at the entrance to Caherconnell Stone Fort – no British or Northern Ireland flag…

 

Sheepdog demonstration at Caherconnell Stone Fort – four border collies each responding to her own voice commands and whistles – I can see why border collies need work to do – it’s bred into them

 

A ewe and her twin lambs – same pregnancy with the same ram

 

Caherconnell Stone Fort, one of three ringforts on today’s expedition