Otherworldly.
Sunrise from Guadalupe Mountains National Park.
Into the cavernsā¦
Sunset from Guadalupe Mountains National Park.
Category: Travel
Posts about my Chapter 5 travel adventures
A 3D day!
Delight: The overnight chill woke me up early this morning, allowing me to see the gorgeous sunrise!
Disappointment: The town of Marfa boasts galleries, however, all were closed this morning. I walked around a bit, noticing hints of previous glamor.
Discovery: Searching for a campsite near Carlsbad Caverns National Park, I made a two-night reservation at Pine Springs Campground. Surprise! This campground is not in Carlsbad Caverns National Park. Instead, itās in Guadalupe Mountains National Park! The small campground – really, blacktop with white paint marking campsites – shares trailheads to 85 miles of trails. Of course, I had to explore one once I got set up!
Sunrise from Cottonwood Campground, Big Bend National Park.
Sunrise from Cottonwood Campground, Big Bend National Park.
Marfa Courthouse, built in the 1880s.
Marfa building with intriguing tile work.
Doors painted just for me!
Guadalupe Mountains National Park trail.
Guadalupe Mountains National Park trail.
Guadalupe Mountains National Park trail.
Guadalupe Mountains National Park trail.
Sunset from Pine Springs Campground, Guadalupe Mountains National Park. Sunrise and sunset in the same day!
Following my rangerās instructions, today I hiked the Window Trail to one of the most gorgeous granite overlooks ever! With sparkling geologic formations, the trail rambled into a canyon, along a stream, over stone steps carved into rocks, and to a magnificent view on slick granite. Sitting at the window, looking over the green valley, I chatted with one retired couple from Cleveland and an environmental scientist from Austin. I shared how much I enjoyed the Underground Railroad Museum in Cleveland and Holocaust Museum in Dallas, two places these āblueā travelers have now added to their lists of places to see.
Leaving the window, I hiked the window overlook side trail, which took me above the window with an even more expansive view of the valley.
Perhaps due to the dry desert heat and to the WiFi available at the trailheadās visitors center, I sat in the shade for awhile following my hike to rehydrate and fiddle with my phone.
Sunrise from Cottonwood Campground.
Window Trail.
Window Trail.
Window Trail.
Window Trail.
At the window.
The window.
A waterfall!
View of the valley from the Window Overlook Trail.
Window Trail.
What a wonderful day, a returning to camping as I startedā¦ BTW, Fort Stocktonā¦no need to visit unless you need a stopover. Nothing exciting or interesting there – IMHO.
For one of the first times, I felt a bit anxious about going to Big Bend National Park. The distance spooked me. Lack of knowledge of the park had me on edge. Cottonwood campground sports no hook-ups or dump station. However, knowing that I could turn around if my anxiety turned to fear, I loaded up on water, dumped my waste tanks, filled up on gas, and drove the many miles to Big Bend.
At the entrance, the young ranger greeted me sweetly, gave me my maps, and directed me to the nearby rustic visitors center saying the rangers are very helpful. I walked in and spoke to the kindest most-understanding ranger, a woman around my age. I explained that Iām a solo traveler, Iāll be here for two nights, Iād like to hike 5-8 miles on not too strenuous trails as a solo hiker safety precaution. She showed me exactly which trails she recommended for me and explained why. I so appreciate rangers who listen and provide individualized guidance!
I saw the Fossil Discovery Exhibit, per my rangerās instructions, and then walked around Castolon where I viewed the remains of a cotton growing establishment.
I then checked into my campground, Cottonwood, a beautiful camp with two of the warmest camp hosts ever! Not only did they welcome me, but they also showed me the group of javelinas roaming the campground. When I left, I mentioned I was heading to Santa Elena Canyon, and, upon my return, the sweet woman asked me how I enjoyed the canyon.
Santa Elena Canyon mesmerized me with its magnificent rock formations, desert flora, and Rio Grande calmly flowing between the canyon walls. The red rocks and desert scenery reminded me of my adventures in Joshua Tree, Death Valley, Nevada, Arizona, Utahā¦it was like āhome.ā
The canyon trail ends at the Rio Grande. If one crosses the river, one is technically in Mexico. So, duh!, I switched to my water shoes, asked one of the young women watching friends (and choosing not to cross) to take my photo, and ventured into the water. It felt a bit like The Narrows at Zion! I walked along the wall, holding onto it out of an abundance of caution. A young man, sitting on the sand spit with a few of his friends, saw me and how the water was over my waist. He suggested I cross to the middle where the water wasnāt as deep. Great advice! I walked to the spit and then touched Mexico! He took my picture – will text it to me in the next day or so when he has cell service.
I returned to camp, and the camp hosts showed me, along with other campers, where two horned owls where hanging out.
In summary, due to the kindness of strangers and, I admit, my willingness to push myself a bit past my comfort zone, I had a phenomenal day!
Castolon
Javelina
Santa Elena Canyon
Millipede
Driftwood in the canyon
Returning from Mexico!
Rio Grande in Santa Elena Canyon
Canyon
Owl #1, the larger owl
Owl #2, the smaller owl
Added the photo texted by one of the young men on the spit. Iām in Mexico in this pic! š
Texas is a big friggin state! Todayās long drive got me through windy, dry, and hilly Texas to the gateway of Big Bend National Park, where Iāll be for the next couple of days. (I have no idea about cell service, so my Big Bend posts may be delayed.) Now, Iām camped at a dusty West Texas RV park, with a friendly owner, clean showers, and western scenery.
Sunset from my RV park.
āIndian Scoutsā metal silhouettes located across the highway from the RV park.
Addie curious where the tall green trees and lush grass wentā¦
I had so much fun taking pictures today! Not only did I enjoy snapping photos of The Alamo (free admission today for all veterans – thank yāall for your service), but I also had a blast capturing images of water fountains, flowing streams, and natural frames on San Antonioās famous River Walk.
Donāt forgetā¦
Alamo archway
Fountain on my way to the River Walk
One of many bridges over the water
River Walk
Locks and dam
River Walk
River Walk
Beer break!
The old Pearl Brewery
Pearl Brewery Plaza
Pearl Brewery Plaza
River Walk
River Walk
River Walk
Maverick-Carter House
When I imagined Austin, I thought about the funky South Congress Avenue area and the river. I did not think about parks, hikes, and waterfalls. However, given my appreciation for state parks, I reserved a spot at McKinney Falls State Park – and hiked around the park to the Upper and Lower Falls before moseying into town.
Totally cool? I arrived, at dusk, at Congress Avenue Bridge where I saw people gathered under the bridge on the riverās shoreline. Being curious, I walked down the staircase and asked what was happening. Little did I know about the BATS!
āAustin’s resident bats are Mexican free-tailed bats, which migrate each spring from central Mexico to various roosts all over the southwestern U.S.
On their nightly flights the bats eat anywhere from 10,000 to 30,000 pounds of insects, including mosquitoes and harmful agricultural pests.
At the end of the season, you can see roughly 1.5 million bats ascending into the summer sky.ā
https://www.austintexas.org/things…/outdoors/bat-watching/
Desert climate for sure!
McKinney Falls State Park hike.
Upper Falls: āWater cascades through natural channels within a massive bed of exposed limestone and volcanic ash.ā
Old cypress tree.
Prehistoric Rock Shelter: āListed on the National Register of Historic Places, this limestone overhang provides shelter for Native Americans for more than 8,000 years.ā
Onion Creek.
Lower Falls which āflows over limestone ledges to the pool below.
Horse Trainerās Cabin: āTwo-room structure built in 1950s for Thomas McKinneyās horse trainer.ā McKinney, a racehorse breeder and one of Stephen F. Austinās original colonists, owned this homestead.
Funky South Congress Avenue district of Austin.
View of the city from underneath the Congress Avenue Bridge.
Bats! All of those flying dots are! (Click on photo for a six-second video.)
Sunset from the bridge.
Breakfast: Addie and I headed from our campground in Arlington to a crepe restaurant in Dallas to meet my friend and colleague, Laura, for breakfast. So good to catch up on life, family, and work!
Grassy Knoll: I crossed the river and parked by the Reunion Tower so I could see the Grassy Knoll, where President John F. Kennedy was assassinated on November 22, 1963, by Lee Harvey Oswald. Oswald shot Kennedy from the sixth floor window of the nearby Texas School Book Depository. Although I wanted to tour The Sixth Floor Museum at Dealey Plaza, it is closed on Tuesdays.
Dallas Holocaust and Human Rights Museum: Over dinner last night when Susan and Len suggested I visit this museum, I nodded politely and thought to myself, āNo way am I going to another Holocaust museum!ā Wow, I am so glad I went! This museum pulled together all of the elements Iāve been ruminating on during this road trip adventure. Iāve seen Native American locations, considered Americansā treatment of slaves and African-Americans, experienced sites focused on immigrants, ā¦ all leading me to reflect on how we āotherizeā people so we can dehumanize them and treat them poorly. This museum not only shared the history of Anti-semitism and the resulting Holocaust, but moved the conversation forward to human rights violations in general and genocide in particular. The final gallery presented stations allowing participants to select their own personal Call to Action. This is exactly what Iāve been looking for! What can I do??? The Call for Action kiosks provided direction and inspiration. The only bummer is the information is only available at the museum – not on their website or in any of their printed materials. Regardless, I feel – surprisingly! – optimistic that I will be able to find something that I can DO to help make this world a better place.
With Laura
Dealey Plaza
The window from which Oswald shot Pres. Kennedy.
No comment
My motherās mother and fatherās father were both from ÅĆ³dÅŗ, Poland, leaving before the Holocaust. Out of the 164,000 Jews in ÅĆ³dÅŗ at the start of WWII, only 877 survived.
Powerful exhibit with explanations of each phase highlighted by examples from around the world, such as Armenia, Rwanda, Cambodia, and so many more.
Throughout the museum, voices of Dallas survivors made the unreal real. This wall showcased the murdered family members of those survivors.
I only took one photo of my Call to Action suggestions.
I rode the Reunion Tower to the top. Just like in Nashville, they take free digital photos of guests.
View from the top of Reunion Tower. These freeways and Dallas drivers? YECH!
Some interesting scenery on my driveā¦ Iām now noticing the lack of green as Iām moving into drier climatesā¦
After two errands – Trader Joeās (small and crazy parking lot!) and Jiffy Lube (nice service with a pit rather than a lift) – I had a FABULOUS evening catching up and having yummy Indian food with Susan and Len, friends from San Luis Obispo who now live in Dallas. One of the gifts of this adventure is spending time with friends and family!
Sad, powerful, poignant: Oklahoma City National Museum and Memorial.
I went with Plan A-/B+ today! Plan A: Massage and taking the waters. Plan B: Hike. Instead, I took the waters at Quapaw Bath and hiked the Peak Trail to the Mountain Tower. No massages available today.
A few observations:
The last time I took a bath similar to the one at Quapaw, I was in Budapest, August 2019. The bathhouses in Hungary delighted me with their opulent architecture and big range of water temperatures. The inside design of Quapaw left a lot to be desired, and the cold water wasnāt cold enough nor the hot water hot enough. Regardless, I ultimately meditated, relaxed, and enjoyed the bath.
Ugh! Many cranky kids yelled and screamed while I walked around the village. My guess is they were tired, hungry, and disinterested in the sights. Although I feel bad for them, their whines grated.
Hiking the Peak Trail brought me back to my center; give me a forest trail, some water (in this case, searching for hot springs!), and I am in my happy place!
The Quapaw was built in a Spanish Colonial Revival style and sits on the site of two previous bathhouses. It was established in 1922 and named after the Native American tribe that once lived here.
Inside the Quapaw – I carefully framed this photo to not show any bathers out of respect for their privacy.
Looking at the mountain from the Promenade Trail behind Bathhouse Row.
After taking the elevator up 216 feet, making the observation deck at the top 1,256 feet above sea level, one sees the Ouachita Mountains, Hot Springs Mountain, and Diamond Lakes area.
View from the tower.
In search of hot springs! Around 15 springs were capped in one field.
Found! (Click on photo for three-second video.)
A butterfly mural similar to Nashville and Michigan!
Fordyce Bath, 1915, now the Visitors Center and museum.
The Assembly Room in Fordyce where men and women could reconnect after their baths. This museum highlighted the roles of Black Americans, who took care of the clientele yet couldnāt bathe.
Steam cabinets in the museum.
Superior Baths, more modestly designed than the others, operated as a bathhouse until 1983 and is now a brew pub.
Hale Bathhouse, built 1882, now a hotel.
Buckstaff Bath, continuously operated since 1912.
Maurice Bathhouse, built in 1911 in Mediterranean style, currently unoccupied.
Ozark Bath, 1922, mission style. Now cultural center.
On the drive up to Little Rock (and elsewhere in the South), I saw many cotton fields with the product rolled up into pink bales. No photos since I didnāt want to pull over on the highway to take a pic.
I have a mixed reaction to the Clinton Presidential Library. On the one hand, the building is designed well, the displays along with the Clinton-narrated self-guided tour are informative, and the garden with its public art with globes showcasing artistsā interpretations of sustainability are beautiful. On the other hand, his impeachment was downplayed as āpoliticsā with no mention of Monica Lewinsky and Clintonās infidelity.
Following the library, I found Little Rockās Trader Joeās where most people wore masks.
Now, Iām at Crystal Springs Campground, part of Hot Springs National Park. Itās beautiful here! Iām going to try to get a good full nightās sleep so I have the energy to explore Hot Springs tomorrow. Plan B? Hike around this campground and relax a bitā¦ Not a bad Plan B, eh?!
The Oval Room filled with reproductions including the Resolute Desk.
Cabinet Room. On the back of each chair is a metal plate with the cabinet personās title. President is in the middle on one side with Secretary of State on his right and Secretary of Defense on his left.
Presidential seal – eagle facing toward peace.
According to Clinton, he had a good relationship with Mandela.
A list of accomplishments.
Railway bridge turned into a pedestrian walkway.
The library itself with one of the 26 sustainability globes, each created by a different artist.
Another view of the bridge.
Addie at Crystal Springs, Hot Springs National Park.
Sunset at my campground.
A long long time ago when I first started this adventure, hanging out at Kate and Chuckās house after my awning surprise and passenger ground effects booboo, Kate and I reviewed my tentative route. We then looked up UNESCO World Heritage sites, and I added them, when possible, to my map. Today, I visited one of them: Poverty Point World Heritage Site in Epps, LA.
What a treat! Around 1650 BC (and I donāt mean Before Covid! š ), Native Americans began to build a massive complex of mounds and ridges that today makes up the Poverty Point World Heritage Site. Using the best hiking trail guide I have found on this journey, I explored the site and immersed myself in the majesty of Poverty Point. My photos do not show the enormity or brilliance of the site.
White cylinders represent excavated large wooden posts, often as deep as nine feet. More research is needed to determine the purpose of the posts.
A long distance view of a mound.
Happy to be exploring Poverty Point.
Mound A measures 72 feet tall, 705 feet in length, and 660 feet in width.
Mound Aās boardwalk to the top and its panoramic view.
Whimsy at Poverty Point, not attributed to Native Americans. š
Tonight, Iām staying at Poverty Point Reservoir State Park, home of – hidden to me! – black bears.
Reservoir.
Sunset campground walk.
Miss Addie enjoying this campground.
This morning, I hung out in Addie doing some trip planning – and then went over the bridge to Natchez where I toured a couple of homes, found the synagogue, and wandered around the Old Jewish Cemetery.
Note: On my two tours, I was the only guest and my guides shared A LOT of information. š
Longwood, the largest octagonal house in the United States, is an historic antebellum mansion located in Natchez, Mississippi. The mansion is known for its octagonal design, byzantine onion-shaped dome and the contrast between the finished first floor and the unfinished upper floors. Longwood is on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places and is a National Historic Landmark.
Intriguing how the staircase highlights the differences between the finished bottom floor (which should have been the basement) and the remainder of the building. Construction halted in 1861 with the Civil War.
View up to the unfinished cupola from the first floor.
Unfinished brick.
As a National Historic Landmark, Auburn has quite a story to tell. It was the first major building in Natchez to follow an actual architectural plan. In the years leading to the Civil War several Natchez homes emulated the style of Auburn’s facade. The home’s spiral staircase stands entirely unsupported, a feat unmatched even in modern buildings. These points introduce you to the dramatic story of Auburn itself.
The unsupported staircase from below.
Thereās a plate for everything!
What do you see when you look at the numbers on the clock face?
Temple Bānai Israel, the oldest Jewish congregation in the state of Mississippi, was founded in 1843. By 1861, this small community of mostly French- and German-speaking merchants, auctioneers, shoemakers, and peddlers was ready to erect its first house of worship, but the outbreak of the Civil War delayed its plans for several years. Finally, in 1872, the congregation dedicated its first temple on the current siteāan occasion of great celebration as āJews and Gentiles filled the temple beyond its capacity and great crowds stood upon the sidewalks and street.ā A charter member of the Union of American Hebrew Congregations (now the Union for Reform Judaism), Bānai Israel is a Reform Jewish community that has served as the spiritual home for Jews from Natchez and the surrounding communities for 175 years.
Jewish Cemetery, 1844-1899. Outside these walls are many more graves, too.
For a totally different pic, hand-washed laundry drying in Addie!
Knowing I had a distance to drive and some powerful sights along the way, Addie and I got started somewhat early this morning.
First stop: The Edmund Pettus Bridge in Selma, AL. This bridge, of course, is the location of Bloody Sunday, March 7, 1965, when John Lewis and Hosea Williams and 600 marchers protesting voter suppression attempted to cross the bridge, troopers opened fire, and 50 protestors were hospitalized. Visiting sites, monuments, and memorials make history and current events come alive and help me see the connections between various past events and present circumstances.
Second stop: Vicksburg National Military Park. I admit it: I am not a Civil War buff, and this site overwhelmed me. It was pivotal to the Unionās success, the rolling hills appeared daunting as a battlefield, and the many monuments create an eerie atmosphere. Nevertheless, the details of Civil War battles donāt really interest me.
Final stop: Vidalia, LA is across the Mississippi River from Natchez, MS, where I plan to explore tomorrow.
A park near the bridge shared stories of the bridge and the key people involved in the Civil Rights Movement.
Now itās becoming clearer to me why the voting rights act has been named after John Lewis. Also, itās becoming abundantly clear why this legislation MUST pass!
Edmund Pettus Bridgeā¦from below.
So much history on this bridge.
Temple Mishkan Israel, Selma, AL. The earliest Jews arrived in the 1830s, formed the congregation in 1867, and built this synagogue in 1899. Three mayors of Selma were Jewish, terms served 1887-1889, 1895-1899, and 1915-1920. Once a congregation of 150 households, there are now nine members.
These signs dot Vicksburg. Notice anything about the colors chosen for the Union forces vs the Confederate forcesā¦?
Vicksburg.
Vicksburg.
Vicksburg.
Sunset with the Mississippi and Natchez in the background.
