Category: Travel

Posts about my Chapter 5 travel adventures

Woke up in time for sunrise! Then traveled to the first city in Kansas, Leavenworth where I viewed the Carroll Mansion Museum, the oldest continuously operating museum in Leavenworth County and listed on the National Historic Registrar. Susan B. Anthony’s brother, Daniel Read Anthony, owned the home in the 1800s, so Susan spent much time in the home as she fought for suffrage.
Given today’s heat, I chose not to hike but rather to ramble onto my Harvest Host for the night, Z&M Twisted Vines Wines and Winery. Z&M, founded by retired US Army Major and Apache pilot, Bryan Zesiger, and his wife, retired elementary school teacher and principal, Gina Montalbano. Gina and I spent over two hours during my tasting talking about education, the minimum wage, culture, Italy, etc. It was a very pleasant evening!
As I write this, a thunderstorm with hail is passing over head!
Sunrise

 

Carroll Mansion Museum

 

Carroll Mansion Museum

 

Carroll Mansion Museum

 

Yep🙁

 

Sunset…just before the rain!

 

The sky now through the same window!

A day full of twists and turns! First, I went into Des Moines itself to supposedly see Terrace Hill Historical Site, which is the governor’s mansion. However while driving around I saw this amazing building – the State Capitol building. Had to see it! Phenomenal! Went to Terrace Hill afterward – oops, I needed a reservation… Moved onto Raccoon River Park and walked around the lake – very nice! Even though it was HOT and HUMID, the walk was beautiful.
On my way to my Harvest Host, I saw signs for the Bridges of Madison County. Squirrel! I was off in search of covered bridges! I found three of the remaining six (out of initially 19) covered bridges.
The day ended at my Harvest Host, Revelton Distillery. Founded by Rob, a former state legislator, and Christi, an internist and Chief Medical Officer of a large practice north of Des Moines, Revelton makes fantastic gin, vodka, whiskey, and bourbon. From the outside, the building looks unassuming. Inside, however, it’s relaxing, upscale, and comfortable. After a chat with Rob about the distillery, politics, and teaching (in addition to the distillery and politics, he’s adjunct taught economics and ethics), I tasted products, toured the distillery, and enjoyed not one but two cocktails. (Curious why I didn’t post last night??!!)
State Capitol

 

Inside the Capitol dome

 

Four story law library

 

State assembly room

 

Des Moines sports bike rack art piece!

 

Bike rack!

 

Bike rack!

 

My trail

 

Hot and humid – heat advisory!

 

Imes Bridge, 1870

 

Holliwell Bridge, 1880

 

Cutler-Donahoe Bridge, 1870

 

Inside Revelton Diatillery

 

Does this need a caption?!

My day started with a better night’s sleep! 
After my usual breakfast, Addie and I set out to explore Minneapolis and its surrounding neighborhoods. First up, Fort Snelling State Park. Oops! We should have checked – closed for renovations. Next, Minnehaha Park, home of Minnehaha Falls. Although he never visited the park, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow helped to spread the waterfall’s fame when he wrote his celebrated poem, The Song of Hiawatha. 
While at Minnehaha, I learned about the Falls of St. Anthony, around seven miles away and near downtown Minnesota. So, off into town for Addie and me! With concrete locks, dam, and apron, the Falls of St. Anthony provide power and navigation rather than natural charm. 
Leaving Addie so she could relax a bit, I walked around downtown to the Basilica of Saint Mary…also closed. 
I returned to the now ready-to-roll Addie and found our way out of Minneapolis and into St. Paul. Not only did we see exquisite large homes, we saw the open-for-visitors Cathedral of Saint Paul. Addie expressed disappointment that she could not enter the cathedral but exhibited pleasure at my photos. 
Our final stops before returning home: homemade ice cream and Trader Joe’s! 
Fort Snelling – under renovation

 

Hydrangeas at Fort Snelling

 

Minnehaha Falls

 

Minnehaha Creek

 

Bridge in Minnehaha Park

 

Falls of St. Anthony

 

The First Bridge – Falls of St. Anthony

 

Basilica of Saint Mary

 

Cathedral of Saint Paul

 

Minnesota state capitol.

 

Tough sleeping last night…muggy and since I thought we’d have thunderstorms (per multiple weather reports), I kept my windows closed and, since not plugged in, I didn’t have a/c. My fan blowing on me wasn’t comforting enough. Oh, well, tonight and tomorrow night I’m at a KOA, just outside of Minneapolis, with electricity – which means a/c.
Regardless, I drove around the bison preserve at Minneopa SP. Scientists have created a natural prairie which sustains a herd of genuine bison. In the early 1900s when bison were almost extinct – only 1,000 remained – they were crossbred with cattle. The herd at Minneopa is pure bison. Public, private, and tribal bison herd managers are working to breed out the cattle DNA from bison. On the drive around the preserve, I could tune to an AM radio station for an explanation of bison preservation.
Following the preserve, I headed over to…wait for it…a waterfall! Yep, I LOVE waterfalls! 
A trip to the post office and then arrival at my campground rounded out my day. And a BIG NAP! 🙂
Prairie with compelling sky

 

More prairie flowers

 

🙂

 

Minneopa Falls

 

The stone was not rolling so it gathered…

 

Some sign writers have great senses of humor!

 

Addie in the town of Jordan

 

Addie at sunset

Last night, another very loud and powerful thunderstorm. I’m guessing there’ll be one tonight, too, given the mugginess and cloud cover… 
Hiked about 8 miles this morning above and below sheer quartzite cliffs and through prairie. Saw a bison herd in the distance. 
Tonight, I’m at another very cool (as in interesting – not as in temperature!) Minnesota state park – I’ll see this park’s bison tomorrow.
A bridge over untroubled water

 

The creek through the bridge slats

 

Muggy weather

 

Wildflowers

 

Can you see the bison herd?

 

Quartzite cliff behind me

 

Quartzite

 

Quartzite wall

Overnight – major thunderstorm! Lots of lightening, loud thunder, and heavy rain!
Today was a “chores” day. In Sioux Falls, SD: 1) maps from AAA (I use an atlas, maps, Google, apps, …); 2) oil, lube, and inspection from the GM dealership (quick, friendly, and complimentary of my home mechanic – he said something about the bushings were even greased – whatever that means!); 3) light bulbs from Ace Hardware (although the light is still not coming on – maybe something bounced loose on my rough gravel road yesterday?); and 4) finally, a pedi!
Thunderstorm!

 

Addie’s other side. Haha!

Nebraska and Nebraskans rock! Today, I slowly wove my way across northern Nebraska to just across the border into South Dakota. The scenery and the people surprised me. Explored Valentine, Niobrara River, Smith Falls, and Ashfall Fossils! Something I noticed: at many other places if I ask where the fellow traveler is from, they’ll say Iowa, Washington, … some state. In Nebraska, they’ll say the town they’re from since they’re all from Nebraska. Northern Nebraska seems to be where Nebraskans vacation.

First stop, the little town of Valentine.

 

They must be having an election…

 

Hearts painted on Valentine’s downtown sidewalks.

 

A closeup of one of the many hay bales I saw while traveling.

 

Bridge over the Niobrara River.

 

Smith Falls: I realize how many photos I take of waterfalls!

 

Poster at Smith Falls State Park.

 

Ashfall Fossil Beds State Historical Park: Nearly 12 million years ago, a volcanic eruption in Idaho spewed ash, which the jet stream carried 1,000 miles to north central Nebraska. Killed by eating ash-filled food, which primarily destroyed their lungs, over about a six week period were horses, rhinos, and other animals. Based on lung capacity, smaller animals died first with the largest dying last. Their bodies were covered by the blowing and drifting ash. The skeletons of these animals are preserved in their death positions complete with evidence of their last meals in their mouths and their last steps preserved in sandstone in what used to be a water hole. Excavation started in 1991.

Note: The Mammoth Site near Mt. Rushmore is “only” 140,000 years old.

 

Ashfall Fossils

 

My Harvest Host tonight: Choteau Creek Brewing Company. Homemade beer and pizza!

Nebraska sports rolling hills, cornfields, and VINEYARDS! Today’s drive in northern Nebraska included surprising sights. The day concluded with wine tasting, wine drinking, and lots of conversation at Niobrara Valley Winery, a Harvest Host. Along with two retired couples, I sampled (and drank) wines and swapped travel adventures, locations, and stories. Nice way to end the day!

Hay bales and hills line the roads.

 

Enjoying Nebraska and Addie.

 

Cornfield.

 

Vineyard.

 

Addie at sunset.

What a lovely state park! It’s a converted fort, with a bit of old west history… Although it’s hot – 92° high today, the many sights and signs make for intriguing viewing. This evening, I went on a jeep ride up to the buttes. Great sunset views!

The lodge.

 

Selfie station – complete with a shelf to set my phone.

 

Bison on the road.

 

Horses on the road.

 

Donkeys on the road.

 

Turtle Butte.

 

Watching the sunset.

 

I thought Nebraska was flat…!

 

 

Lovely view.

 

Sunset (a bit of smoke making for a brilliant sunset).

I hit the road northward at about 9am to take a look at Deadwood (crowded and cute) and explore Spearfish Canyon, where I hiked to Spearfish and Roughlock Falls. I devoured delicious homemade ice cream in Spearfish and then drove around Sturgis. Although the Harley-Davidson Rally doesn’t officially start until Friday, Sturgis is getting ready! Lots of booths, tents, and Jack Daniels banners! And did I mention the influx of bikers? There are significantly more all over the Black Hills area than when I arrived here last Thursday. 
Regardless of the H-D noise and traffic congestion, I really love the Black Hills. The scenery is magnificent, the hiking refreshing, and the ice cream scrumptious.
Spearfish Falls

 

Spearfish Falls

 

Roughlock Falls

 

Roughlock Falls

 

I LOVE 44!

At the end of each month of my Cross Country Road Trip, I plan to post my reflections from the month, along with one photo from each state I visited that month and the friends and family I’ve visited. [Note: If you have not yet joined my private Facebook travelog group and would like daily (give or take!) posts and pics, please let me know and I’ll send you an invite.]
People: There are so many kind and helpful people – not only family and friends (Sarah, Andy, Kate, Chuck, Lynne, Ken), but also total strangers. I am also finding that the more I travel into “red” states, the animosity toward me – as a Californian and as a female and as a solo traveler – is less respectful. Learning how to respect each other, regardless of “otherness,” is vital to creating a safe and healthy country. How do we do this?
Speed Limit: I’ve found that I can predict the speed limit based on driving conditions. To save gasoline – get the best gas mileage – I’m driving no faster than the speed limit (yep, I normally would go about 5 mph faster…).
Beauty: Our country is GORGEOUS! The variety of colors, textures, and geology make for amazing scenery. Although I love the visual and geological beauty of the badlands and desert sites, my heart soars with tall trees, blue skies, and pine needle trails.
Solo Travel: I love solo traveling – and I love traveling with friends and family! Interestingly, I have seen maybe only one other solo female traveler this month – in Glacier National Park, a recent college grad trying to figure out her next step. I wonder if it’s because this is July, I’m focusing for this month more on national parks, and there are a lot of families doing the same type of travel right now?
Invisibility of Older Women: As an older woman – my gray hair tells my age! – I am mostly invisible. And I LOVE this! No one bothers me, I’m free to do as I please, and when I need help (i.e., awning issue in Clear Lake State Park) others are very willing to help.
California

 

Oregon

 

Washington

 

Idaho

 

Montana

 

Wyoming

 

North Dakota

 

South Dakota

 

Andy and Sarah <3

 

Kate and, missing from photo, Chuck (and their two sweet doggies). <3

 

Lynne and Ken.  <3

I decided to start slowly today, enjoying the strong internet connection to putter and post my July Reflections. Then, I mosied on down to The Mammoth Site in Hot Springs. Discovered in 1974 when the site was being excavated for a housing development, the remains of mammoths and other animals are now being examined by scientists with the site being turned over to a 501(c)3 https://www.mammothsite.org.
A quick trip to Ace Hardware in Hot Springs for screws to fix my bathroom door – and then onto Custer State Park for a hike and tick encounter. Hiking through a grass- and flower-filled meadow SOUNDED wonderful, until I kept brushing bugs off of my legs and arms, including two ticks on my leg – easy to brush off – and one on the back of my right shoulder. The shoulder tick came off whole…and bloody. I finished the hike on the road instead of the meadow and found a woman on the road, relaxing with her guy, and asked her to check me for ticks, which she did competently, completely, and kindly – I wonder if she’s a medical professional… 
Back at camp and following some relaxation with the Olympics, I inserted wooden toothpicks into the holes needing screws, added the screws, and fixed my bathroom door. 
Now for dinner! 
Bones, bones, and more bones!

 

A complete mammoth, except the head!

 

More proof that I’m not very tall.

 

Looks like a cool place to hike…

 

Before encountering ticks.

 

Addie waiting for me to return from my hike.

 

Bighorn sheep herd in Custer State Park.

 

Fixed!