Category: Travel

Posts about my Chapter 5 travel adventures

For my final full day in Fairbanks, I took the bus (seniors over age 60 are free!) to the Museum of the North at the University of Alaska.  Afterward, the bus returned me to downtown where I wandered around capturing some final photos. 

Yesterday, I bought trekking poles to help me walk without falling.  At Chena Hot Springs Resort, the snow wasn’t as packed as it is in Fairbanks, so I felt safer walking without poles.  In Fairbanks, the streets and sidewalks are slicker; poles give me a sense of security and, in fact, helped me avoid falling.  They were quite useful to me as I meandered around town.

I have loved my time in Alaska!  Although I’ve only seen a tiny part of this state, with the primary goal of seeing the Aurora Borealis, my interest in returning – especially when I can hike in the summer and not deal with the cold weather – increases each day I’m here.  The Alaskan people – natives, locals, and transplants – are rugged, competent, and friendly.  The scenery is awe-inspiring!  I can’t wait to experience more of this fabulous state!

Museum of the North

How about this outhouse?!  It’s a touchable sculpture!

 

Next to the outhouse is a Roomba!  🙂

 

Raven: In the Pink (1984) [Carved wood panel, paint by James Schoppert]

 

Bowhead Whale, harvested on September 26, 1963

 

Flipper of the Bowhead Whale

 

View of the sun through the museum’s window

 

Murals of Fairbanks

 

 

 

 

From the airplane…

Just after takeoff over Fairbanks, Alaska

 

Before landing over Morro Bay, California

A few questions and answers…

1) Where is Chena Hot Springs Resort? It’s about 60 miles northeast of Fairbanks.  It’s at the end of a long desolate road with little traffic except to and from the resort.

2) Why am I at Chena Hot Springs Resort?  Quick answer: because it’s here!  Here as in a great location to see the Aurora Borealis, here as in my 50th state to visit, and here as in a friend stayed at the resort last year and highly recommended it.  🙂

3) Why am I here for five days?  When I was in Iceland for a week, I didn’t see the lights.  This time, I wanted to give myself the best opportunity to see the lights.  The recommendation is three nights and I initially thought about seven nights, so I compromised on five nights.  Little did I know that I would see the Aurora on nights #1 and #2!  The next two nights were too cloudy.  On my fifth night, I thought for sure I wouldn’t see them.  The day had been very cloudy with low predictions of Aurora sightings for that evening.  I sat in the Activity Center, which has relatively good WiFi, to work on my blog.  While sitting there, someone ran in and told me the lights were visible.  I grabbed my camera and tripod and snapped away!  The photo at the top of this post is from night #5.

4) How have I spent my days?  In addition to trying to learn Spanish on DuoLingo, reading The Candy House by Jennifer Egan, and chatting with lots of amazing and diverse people, I’ve enjoyed many of the activities at the resort.  These include the hot springs pool (AT LEAST ONCE EVERY DAY!), a magnificent massage, the Ice House with appletini in an ice glass, dogsled ride, and snowshoeing.  Yes, ten months after snowshoeing in Bulgaria, I strapped on shoes and once again trudged through snow!

 
Hot Springs Pool

Those who felt comfortable bringing their phones into the pool would take photos of others and text the pictures to their new “friends.”

 

Strands of frozen hair.

 

Looking into the pool.

 
Ice House

Appletini in an ice glass.

 

The tradition is to break one’s ice glass while making a wish! (Click on the photo for an eight second video.)

 

Ice sculpture.

 
Dog Kennel

Petting the dogs after the dogsled ride.

 

Snowshoeing

Wearing army surplus gloves from the resort – they worked well at keeping my fingers warm!

 

Moose tracks on the trail.

 

Caribou tracks.

 

Monument Creek.

 

A tunnel of snow-covered trees.

 

Mottled sky!

My 63rd birthday started at midnight watching the Aurora Borealis!

While photographing the lights, a fellow traveler took a picture of me taking photos and sent it to me.  🙂

 
At breakfast, I finished my delicious omelet and my server brought me a slice of cheesecake!  It was sent over by a lovely couple I had met the day before at the hot springs pool.  They were here celebrating their 40th anniversary, and I mentioned that my birthday was the following day.  Seeing me at breakfast, they surprised me with cake!

 
Following breakfast, I wandered around the resort, snapping pics of whatever caught my attention.

 

 

 

 
Next up was dog sledding! Although it was a short ride – about 10 minutes on a 1.5 mile trail – it was fun sitting in the sled and having the musher guide the eight dogs on the trail.  No photos of the actual sledding since my camera was tucked away!

 

After the sled ride, I enjoyed meeting and petting some of the resort’s 80 dogs.

 

To top off the day, three friends (whom I met at the yurt on the previous night’s Aurora Tour) and I had a few drinks and long conversations about a variety of topics including travel, languages, and spirituality.  What a nice way to end a terrific day!

I am so excited! 

Five years ago in Iceland, we tried to see the Aurora Borealis – and never saw them.  One of the BIG reasons for coming to Alaska – especially this part of Alaska for this number of days at this time of year – was to see the Aurora – and I did!  Tonight!

Not only did I see them, I captured them on my camera.  I started off with a rookie mistake:  I left my lens cap on!  Ugh!  A few other people were taking great photos with their iPhones, and I was getting NOTHING! 

Then I took my lens cap off and VOILA!  Amazing photos!

 

 

 

 

My second night at Chena Hot Springs Resort, I joined an Aurora Tour.  About 40 of us rode in Humvees up the hill to see the lights.  To keep us warm and comfortable, we hung out in a yurt – by a heater and drinking hot beverages.  The tour started at 9:30pm and ended at 2:30am.  The best part?  Hanging out and chatting with some wonderful people!

At first it was clear…

 

 

 

…then the clouds moved in.

 

 

 

Surprisingly, the lights were out on my fifth night!  I thought for sure I wouldn’t see them due to the clouds!  While sitting in the Activity Center, using the relatively good WiFi, someone ran in and told me the Aurora was visible.  I grabbed my camera and tripod to snap these photos!

 

 

Yes, I’m now in my 50th state! 

After completing my big road trip, I realized I had traveled to 49 of the 50 states.  With one remaining, it was time to visit Alaska.  Add to that: 1) I would love to see and, if possible, photograph the Aurora Borealis – which I missed when I was in Iceland a few years ago; and 2) my birthday is in a few days, so I thought I’d treat myself to a birthday trip.

So, here I am!  Is it cold?  YES!!!!!  Game changers:  Karen’s long down coat (thank you!), hand warmers, and a balaclava!

By cold, I mean…it was -4° in Fairbanks last night when it was 45° in San Luis Obispo…

I spent the morning relaxing and getting up the resolve to face the cold.  Well, and I’m having fun “learning” Spanish on DuoLingo, so I did quite a bit of that while delaying going outside into the cold air!

My first stop was a terrific coffee shop, McCafferty’s!  I have a feeling I’ll see quite a bit of Alaska through windows like these…

 
I walked around a bit and enjoyed the views of Golden Heart Plaza.

 
In addition to visiting the Cultural and Visitors Center, I wandered over to the Ice Museum.  The ice sculptures demonstrate amazing creativity!

Now, to stay inside and warm…unless I decide to venture out for the lights!

I went out for a little bit to try my camera at night.  No success with the Aurora, since downtown Fairbanks has too much light pollution. 

Here’s a photo I took of trees beyond a snow berm.

I have a folder with photos of the friends with whom I experienced this fantastic adventure.  However, I’m leaving it up to them to post their own personal photos.  (A tad of internet privacy, eh?!)

Here, though, are photos of me – some with others and some not! 🙂

This is my favorite pic of me!  It shows me having fun taking photos, experiencing new adventures, and spending time with friends. (Photo credit: Frank)

 

Morelia

 

 

Dancing in Santa María Huiramangaro

 

Mezcal tasting and lunch

 

Happy hour – and focused conversation! – at Rick Hall’s house – amazing collection of folk art!

 

Wearing copper crowns to greet our “subjects”

 

Farewell happy hour

 
With Hector, Ophelia, and their team at our Pátzcuaro B&B – delicious food, kind service, friendly atmosphere!

 

I think Joel’s sombrero looks better on him!

 

The energy and crowds at Santa María Huiramangaro seemed a bit overwhelming at one point, so I took my camera and wandered the streets and alleys.  After the sweet pastorela of San Pedro Pareo, we learned how to make mezcal – and tasted it, of course!

Santa María Huiramangaro

 

 

San Pedro Pareo

 

 

 

Views from our mezcal tasting

 

We visited Santa Fe de la Laguna twice, once during the day at the beginning of our trip and again at night at the end of our journey.  Following visiting a master mask-maker’s studio and eating a delicious lunch prepared by his wife, we headed to Sevina for its pastorela.

Santa Fe de la Laguna

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Door to mask maker’s home

 

Sevina

 

Our gateway to Pátzcuaro and the pastorela dances, Morelia provides delights of its own.

Abundant flowers

 

The Golden Church

 

Ready for a ride

 

City of Love

 

Aqueduct

 

Fabulous BLUE dress!

 

Flags a-flyin’

 

Flowers, stones, and a fountain – ah! 🙂

 

I wasn’t the only one snapping pics

 

Churches galore

 

We took a walking tour, which allowed us to enter this private space to see the murals painted on the walls; the murals tell the story of Morelia

 

Yes, I love doorways, arches, and windows.

 

Dress shop

 

Beautiful!

Oh, the artists and artisans!  So talented, so creative, so beautiful!

Masks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ceramics

Master ceramicist!

 

Car kiln in the ceramicist’s studio

 

 

 

Copper

 

 

Weaving

 

Canoe building and fresco painting

 

Mezcal production

 

 

Mariachi

This talented singer serenaded us at our farewell happy hour.

 

Nineteen artisans died from COVID-19.  In a Pátzcuaro museum, a tribute honored each artisan sharing their story and an example of their work.

Purépecha are the indigenous people of Michoacán, primarily in the area of Pátzcuaro.  They retain their own language, culture, and traditions, including the pastorela dances.  Warm, welcoming, and fun, they embraced us fully as we experienced their dances with them.  Other than one person at one dance on one day, we were the only tourists to join them.  I think they enjoyed our visit and energy as much as we enjoyed being with them.

Getting ready for the day’s pastorela in Santa Fe de la Laguna

 

Each village has its own carguero in charge of organizing the pastorela festivities.  This sweet girl, hanging out at the carguero’s home in Santa Fe de la Laguna, was a bit shy while allowing me to take her photo.

 

In Santa Fe de la Laguna, two women strolled down the street in front of a colorfully beautiful mural.

 
Three men relaxing for a bit in Santa Fe de la Laguna.  I enjoy capturing photos through and of windows and doorways.

 

Intent gorgeous eyes of a child watching the pastorela in Santa Fe de la Laguna.

 

Happiness during Santa Fe de la Laguna’s pastorela!

 

A little guy was dressed up to participate in Sevina’s pastorela.

 

At Santa María Huiramangaro’s pastorela, a mother carried her darling baby in her ribozo. The woman was pleased to have her baby’s photo taken.

 

This delightful little girl had fun playing with bottle caps – Santa María Huiramangaro.

 

In Santa María Huiramangaro, people could pick up a doll representing Baby Jesus.  They would say a prayer and kiss the doll.  I wondered what they were praying for…

 

While sitting on a ledge eating my lunch in Santa María Huiramangaro, I spotted two children eating ice cream.  Yum yum!

 

Oh, those eyes! Santa María Huiramangaro.

 

The carguera in Santa María Huiramangaro placed ribbons in the hair of the four women in our group.  She was so happy to welcome and celebrate us!  We had a blast hanging out with her – drinking, dancing, and laughing!

 

The best seat to view the pastorela in San Pedro Pareo!

 

We had the most delicious traditional meal in Angahuan, prepared from scratch by this talented woman who has cooked for many people from around the world – including for the Pope.

 

All dressed up and ready for the pastorela in Angahuan!

 

Beautiful!  Prepared for Angahuan’s pastorela.

 

While waiting for the evening’s pastorela dance contest in Santa Fe de la Laguna, I played peek-a-boo and totally connected with Yarella, a sweetie who is the carguero’s granddaughter!

 

 

We started and ended our pastorela dance tour in Santa Fe de la Laguna.  The second pastorela occurred at night, with several troupes dancing throughout the village and, ultimately, competing by displaying their skills in front of the carguero’s home.

*Note:  Photos taken on my phone, so quality not as good as my camera.

 

Small yet mighty dancer!

 

A wide variety of costumes.

 

On a stage in front of the community center, troupes performed for a big audience.