I explored the hydrothermal delights at Mammoth Hot Springs in the morning, enjoying the walk and scenery but not the crowds. (My horseback riding guides said Yellowstone averages 4-5 million visitors every year. We’re halfway through the season and already 5 million visitors have been here!)

In the afternoon, I headed over to Roosevelt Corral so I could meet Ponka and ride in Yellowstone’s backcountry for an hour. Our guides eloquently described the bison dust pits where the humongous animals roll around in dirt, the rocks left behind by glaciers, and the various flora on the trail. This was a fun way to see a different side of Yellowstone!