I admit it.  

After nearly four weeks of travel, I was exhausted.  Mentally and physically.

Not mentioned has been my vision challenge.  My right eye is still hazy; it’s as if I’m looking through a fogged window.  My depth perception and balance remain frustrating.  On Kinfish, I went up and down the steep stairs facing inward and grasping the handrails, fearful my compromised vision would cause me to fall.  While hiking during Kinfish excursions and on Iceland adventures, I stepped carefully and cautiously, consistently using my poles.  (Not always successfully, though!  In Landmannalaugar, I did one of my signature slips onto my butt – helped up by three kind and age-appropriate gentlemen!)

The mental strain didn’t hit me until the end of my trip.  Perhaps because I knew it was over?

Anyway, by my final day in Iceland, I was thoroughly tired.  Sore from the big highland hikes and drained from the visual difficulties.

I wandered around to capture some closing images.  Afterward, I shuttled to Sky Lagoon for a relaxing soak, wearing a rented swimsuit since my depleted brain forgot to put mine in my backpack – and had a fun conversation with an Icelandic diplomat and her marketing research husband.

Back at my hotel, I slowly packed, breathed, and prepared for the transition home – to my Sheila, my friends, my family, my wonderful non-travel life!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’m going to start this post with one of my favorite photos EVER.

My 14-hour excursion, complete with a four-hour trek, capped my Iceland adventure!  The beauty, companions, and sights of this tour delighted me!

As described by Arctic Adventures, “Landmannalaugar is a stunning geothermal region in the Highlands of Iceland and a starting point of the legendary Laugavegur Trail. The area is known for some of the world’s most scenic hiking trails. On this tour, you’ll walk past rhyolite mountains, lava fields, and canyons and enjoy jaw-dropping views of the Fjallabak Nature Reserve. At the end of the hike, you’ll soak in the natural hot pool near Laugahraun lava field, with plenty of time for photos.”

The multi-colored mountains, vast volcanic plains, and obsidian rock formations, coupled with friendly and kind people, turned this into an exceptional experience.

I’ll let my images tell the story…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A field of cottongrass flowers treated as as we walked to the heated pool

 

After soaking and changing, I returned to the heated pool of Landmannalaugar to capture this image

In December 2017, I visited Iceland.  At that time, I explored the southern Ring Road and hoped to see the Northern Lights.  Although I saw no aurora borealis until Alaska in 2023, I enjoyed the winter coastal sights of Iceland.

This time, I decided to do something different and roam the interior highlands of Iceland.  Rather than piece together a trek, necessitating packing and logistics, I booked two one-day tours with Arctic Adventures.  Even though the days were long (12 hours on Wednesday, August 19 and 14 hours on Thursday, August 20), the vistas and experiences more than made up for the time committed.

My first tour took me to geothermal delight, Kerlingarfjöll.  To our dismay, en route there was a “situation” (the word our guide used)!  Our super-jeep almost lost a tire!  The locks on the rear passenger wheel nearly came off.  We stopped on the side of the road.  A small bus from another company heading to Kerlingarfjöll picked us up after we waited for about an hour.  While we hiked, Arctic Adventures sent a mechanic to our vehicle; he fixed it and drove it to meet us at the end of our hike.  Phew!

Arctic Adventures wrote this about Kerlingarfjöll:  “Kerlingarfjöll volcanic mountain range in central Iceland is a picturesque paradise filled with steaming geothermal valleys and gushing glacial rivers. Along the way, you’ll be treated to spectacular views of the vast lava fields and glacier-topped mountains.”

The trip didn’t disappoint!  I saw gorgeous steaming heat vents, flowing rivers, magnificent glaciers, and vast lava fields.

The geothermal activity of Kerlingarfjöll reminded me of Yellowstone.  Not mentioned in Arctic Adventures description, however, was the geothermic “rotten egg” smell.  😊

Kerlingarfjöll

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the way to Kerlingarfjöll and before our jeep broke down, a herd of Icelandic horses ran across the road

 

Following our hike in Kerlingarfjöll, we stopped by the magnificent Gullfoss

 

Gullfoss in the summer looks quite different than it did in the winter!

It took a bit to get my “land legs” back after spending 12 days on Kinfish! 

Returning to society with lots of people (other than our vessel’s community of 22), cars, buildings, and traffic lights required some patience and humor.  What?  I have to watch for vehicles to cross the road?  There are people around whom I don’t know?  I need to pay for my food?  Silly, I know, but it was a transition!

To help, I gave myself the time and space to wander around Reykjavik, with camera in hand of course. 

Hallgrímskirkja: With a statue of Leif Erickson in front, this church resides at the top of a hill allowing those who take the elevator to the top amazing views of Reykjavik

 

At the top of the bell tower in Hallgrímskirkja

 

Reykjavik as seen through one of Hallgrímskirkja’s bell tower windows

 

A few of Reykjavik’s murals

 

 

 

The glass windows of Harpa Concert Hall

 

More Harpa windows

 

Street and seaside reflected in Harpa’s window

 

Sun Voyager sculpture with Mount Esja in the background

 

Lake Tjörnin with the Lutheran Church

 

A couple of “frame within a frame” images

 

 

A brightly painted house

 

Color!

Leaving Kinfish…not only the vessel but the community…felt powerful.  My Kinfish experience was exceptional.  Overwhelming.  Beautiful.  Fabulous.

Yet, the Kinfish crew needed to prepare for its next guests, and it was time for us to move onto our upcoming adventures.

After disembarking in north Iceland fjord city Akureyri, Nanine, Francie, Peggy, and I began exploring the Botanical Gardens.  Very quickly, Peggy received a phone call from Robin, requesting we return to the ship.  Iceland immigration authorities had arrived at Kinfish after we left and needed to process our passports.  We walked back, showed our passports, and resumed our meandering.

From there, we headed to Forest Lagoon where we soaked, sipped, and enjoyed the views.

Soon, we were at the airport, ready for our flight to Reykjavik!

Akureyri during our walk

 

 

 

 

Forest Lagoon (photo courtesy of Nanine)

I am at a loss figuring out how to post about my Kinfish expedition…

Here are my random thoughts from my travel-addled brain…arrived home only about 12 hours ago…

Expedition:  I asked our captain, Robin, how he defines an expedition.  He said it’s an exploration with a start, perhaps a key date/sight, and an end.  We started from Longyearbyen, Svalbard on August 5, targeted East Greenland for the total solar eclipse on August 12, and disembarked in Akureyri, Iceland on August 17.  For those 12 days, we wandered, looking for daily treats of fjords, icebergs, animals, etc.  An expedition differs from a cruise in that Kinfish is a 12 passenger-10 crew vessel nimble enough to take us where the conditions allow.  Robin and our astute and resourceful guides, Lauren and Alex, plotted each day’s journey after considering weather, ice, distance, sights… A cruise has a set itinerary; an expedition takes you wherever there’s something intriguing.

Background:  My friend Nanine is an eclipse chaser.  I am not.  Nonetheless, I have learned – as have Francie and Peggy, two other Nanine friends – to say “yes” to Nanine when she proposes an adventure.  Three years ago, Nanine and Francie explored Svalbard with Robin on Kinfish.  Afterward, she suggested (nudged, prodded, begged!) Robin to put together an eclipse trip to East Greenland for the August 12, 2026 total solar eclipse.  Robin, a talented, competent, and adventurous seafarer, loves a challenge!  We had no idea the amount of work he had to put into creating this trip, but he did it.  So many permits, so much planning, so many obstacles!  When they first learned that Robin was planning an eclipse expedition, Lauren and Alex reached out to Robin requesting (imploring!) to be the guides on this trip.  What a team!  Robin, Alex, and Lauren:  our expedition leaders who, together, made this dream into forever memories!

People:  The 12 guests and 10 crew quickly coalesced into a community.  Although each crew member had a specific job, they all supported each other while making the experience exciting, fun, and safe for everyone.  The environment Captain Robin creates centers around his selecting competent, kind, and service-oriented crew members.  Every crew member helped each other and guests, answered our many questions, and created a warm and welcoming atmosphere.  Although Hospitality Chief Linn’s main job was to take excellent care of the guests – which she absolutely did with grace, generosity, and heart! – the entire team contributed to the overall loveliness and comfort of Kinfish.  And my fellow guests…wow!  Wonderful, intelligent, adventurous people!  At meals, deliciously prepared by Chef Roger, it didn’t matter where one sat as the friendship and conversation never lagged.  Laughter and stories ensued throughout the expedition.

The Bridge:  The heart and epicenter of Kinfish is the bridge.  On some vessels, only designated personnel are allowed on the bridge.  On Kinfish, everyone is not only allowed but encouraged to hang out on the bridge.  This is where Robin and First Mate Sarah shared duties, each taking six hour shifts.  In addition to steering the ship, they also taught whomever wanted to learn about the monitors and instruments and invited us to sit in the second chair.  Whenever anyone saw a polar bear…or a magnificent iceberg…or a family of musk oxen…Lauren or Alex would make an announcement over the PA, and most guests would run (well, as much as one can on those steep steps!) up to the bridge.  With cameras in hand, we’d open windows, step outside, or shoot through windows to capture the scene someone on the bridge found for us.  During slow times, we’d often hang out on the bridge, chatting, exchanging stories, laughing, learning.

Weather:  Arctic weather in the summer…cold but not freezing.  Layers.  Lots of layers!  We didn’t have rain, although the most cloudy day was August 12, the day of the eclipse 🌒.  What we felt, though, was the rolling and pitching of the water, especially when we crossed from Svalbard to Greenland.  Robin guided us to the north, just shy of 80°N, connecting Kinfish with pack ice to reduce currents and swells.  Until we got there, though, wowza!  That ship was a rockin’ and a rollin’!  Thank goodness for Scopolamine, the motion sickness patches I wore throughout the trip.  Although I felt the ship’s movement, I never felt sick.  The second night onboard when it was the worst, I didn’t feel ill; I did feel, though, a bit scared.  It was my first time on a small ship under those conditions.  I had confidence that everything was going to be okay, and I was a little freaked.  In the morning when we found the pack ice, everything calmed down, including my fears.

Itinerary:  Instead of doing a daily post, I’m going to sort my photos (and there are many!) into categories.  Below is the itinerary.

Photos:  My photos are grouped by topic rather than day.

Getting ready for this adventure, I studied up on how to photograph an eclipse.  I bought a special solar filter for my camera, purchased eclipse glasses, and over-prepared myself.  To no photographic avail!

Let me state now, however, that the eclipse was MAGICAL.

Yes, magical.

Robin positioned us as best as he could.  With cloud cover forecasted throughout East Greenland, he – in consultation with our guides-extraordinaire Lauren and Alex – had to decide if we push it to make it down to Scoresby Sund in time for the eclipse and the possibility, not probability, of clear skies – or enjoy the many fjords in the national park and hope the clouds disperse.  Robin, Alex, and Lauren spoke with all of us, presenting weather data and forecasts.  As a group, we felt rushing to Scoresby Sund – and being with the dozen of ships hanging out there – would not allow us to behold the spectacular scenery of East Greenland.  Robin had obtained a special permit for us to be in the national park, offering the mystique of solitude while avoiding the crowds of eclipse chasers.  The risk of rushing and not being guaranteed a clear view of the eclipse was too great.  We wanted a relaxed and memorable expedition with the chance of seeing the eclipse.

Eclipse Day arrived.  As did the clouds.  In the morning, we gathered on the deck for an Eclipse Dance, singing songs to clear the skies.  Lauren and Alex, who throughout our journey led talks with us on animals, geology, and culture, spoke about the cause of eclipses.  We watched a documentary.  We learned and studied.

We savored that day, wandering around the fjord in zodiacs, rejoicing at the majesty of the ice and cliffs, and pausing for a moment of quiet contemplation.  Next, we cavorted in the ice and water in our survival suits.  SO MUCH FUN!

Linn, our incredible hostess, set up the aft-deck for a party!  Tables, blankets, beverages, snacks, fairy lights…everything was festive!  As the time for the eclipse approached, the crew joined us.  It was truly a celebration!  When it was near time for the eclipse, Robin had the crew turn off everything.  No sounds, no lights.  Nothing.  The eclipse came.  Everything went dark.  The deck was silent.  Total darkness and total quiet.  Then the light returned.  We cheered!

It was a MAGICAL experience, shared with wonderful people.

 

 

 

 

 

*Deck photos courtesy of Nanine as I was “in the moment” and didn’t take any!

During the expedition, friends took a few photos of…me!

Wearing my warm suit and life jacket, I’m ready to explore the fjord via a zodiac.

 
On “Eclipse Day,” we donned survival suits for a super-fun time playing in the water and ice!  We floated, tried to climb on ice (I kept falling off), and made “stars.”  So much fun!!!

 

 

One day, we walked on the pack ice!

 

 

Other photos captured by friends…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This category includes images of human rather than natural creations…

This lookout site hangs out near the walrus haul-out

 

From Signehamna, the sight of a Nazi weather station

 

A fox trap

 

Outside a hut in Blomgsterbugten

 

Ella Ø Station: a remote historic outpost in Northeast Greenland National Park, now used as a summer base by Denmark’s Sirius Dog Sled Patrol and accessible only with special permission

 

A plane landing at Ella Ø Station

 

At the entrance to Scoresby Sund is the village of Ittoqqortoormiit where we had a walking tour and some time to wander

 

 

 

 

 

Oh, Lauren!

She was so excited to share the succulents at Romer Fjord with us!  Kinfish stopped in the fjord, Alex and Lauren scouted for bears, and we crossed the water in the zodiac to view the beautiful succulents.  While there, fog lifted across the fjord, revealing a polar bear, our fourteenth!, sunning itself on the other side of the fjord.

Uh oh!  What should we do?  Alex went down to the zodiac and stood guard.  (Alex and Lauren were ALWAYS armed, each carrying a pistol and rifle, to protect us from bears.  With their expertise, they train and certify other guides in polar bear safety and firearm handling.)

Lauren walked us to the aforementioned plants, gently and kindly hurrying us along.

As the bear began to enjoy the beach, we quickly climbed into the zodiac and retired to Kinfish.  Bear and humans:  all safe.  Succulents:  viewed and admired.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I didn’t realize how gorgeous icebergs are!  They are big, beautiful, colorful…amazing!!!

When we approached an exceptionally magnificent iceberg, Alex or Lauren would announce it over the PA.  Icebergs are that special, that extraordinary, that they deserve to be called out, appreciated, and photographed.

My favorite iceberg photos…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Those that know me, know that I kept a list of all of the animals I saw (see below).

Here are my favorite photos of animals I captured – with my lens!

Walruses (our first zodiac trip was to a walrus haul-out on our first day)

 

 

 

Musk Oxen

 

 

 

Arctic Hares

 

 

Ptarmigan

 

Seals

 

 

Pink-footed Goose

 

Kittiwake

 

Official list!

Non-birds:

  • Polar Bears (14)
  • Walrus
  • Blue whale
  • Humpback Whale
  • Reindeer (Svalbard)
  • Hooded seal
  • Ringed seal
  • Muskox
  • Arctic Hare
  • White-beaked Dolphins

Birds:

  • Little Auk (Dovekie)
  • Brunch Guillemot (Thick billed Murre)
  • Black Guillemot
  • Atlantic Puffin
  • Barnacle Goose
  • Common Eider
  • Great Skua
  • Arctic Skua (Parasitic Jaeger)
  • Black-legged Kittiwake
  • Ivory Gull
  • Glaucous Gull
  • Arctic Tern
  • Red-throated Loon (Diver)
  • Northern Fulmar
  • Snow Bunting
  • Ptarmigan
  • Pink-footed Goose