I am at a loss figuring out how to post about my Kinfish expedition…

Here are my random thoughts from my travel-addled brain…arrived home only about 12 hours ago…

Expedition:  I asked our captain, Robin, how he defines an expedition.  He said it’s an exploration with a start, perhaps a key date/sight, and an end.  We started from Longyearbyen, Svalbard on August 5, targeted East Greenland for the total solar eclipse on August 12, and disembarked in Akureyri, Iceland on August 17.  For those 12 days, we wandered, looking for daily treats of fjords, icebergs, animals, etc.  An expedition differs from a cruise in that Kinfish is a 12 passenger-10 crew vessel nimble enough to take us where the conditions allow.  Robin and our astute and resourceful guides, Lauren and Alex, plotted each day’s journey after considering weather, ice, distance, sights… A cruise has a set itinerary; an expedition takes you wherever there’s something intriguing.

Background:  My friend Nanine is an eclipse chaser.  I am not.  Nonetheless, I have learned – as have Francie and Peggy, two other Nanine friends – to say “yes” to Nanine when she proposes an adventure.  Three years ago, Nanine and Francie explored Svalbard with Robin on Kinfish.  Afterward, she suggested (nudged, prodded, begged!) Robin to put together an eclipse trip to East Greenland for the August 12, 2026 total solar eclipse.  Robin, a talented, competent, and adventurous seafarer, loves a challenge!  We had no idea the amount of work he had to put into creating this trip, but he did it.  So many permits, so much planning, so many obstacles!  When they first learned that Robin was planning an eclipse expedition, Lauren and Alex reached out to Robin requesting (imploring!) to be the guides on this trip.  What a team!  Robin, Alex, and Lauren:  our expedition leaders who, together, made this dream into forever memories!

People:  The 12 guests and 10 crew quickly coalesced into a community.  Although each crew member had a specific job, they all supported each other while making the experience exciting, fun, and safe for everyone.  The environment Captain Robin creates centers around his selecting competent, kind, and service-oriented crew members.  Every crew member helped each other and guests, answered our many questions, and created a warm and welcoming atmosphere.  Although Hospitality Chief Linn’s main job was to take excellent care of the guests – which she absolutely did with grace, generosity, and heart! – the entire team contributed to the overall loveliness and comfort of Kinfish.  And my fellow guests…wow!  Wonderful, intelligent, adventurous people!  At meals, deliciously prepared by Chef Roger, it didn’t matter where one sat as the friendship and conversation never lagged.  Laughter and stories ensued throughout the expedition.

The Bridge:  The heart and epicenter of Kinfish is the bridge.  On some vessels, only designated personnel are allowed on the bridge.  On Kinfish, everyone is not only allowed but encouraged to hang out on the bridge.  This is where Robin and First Mate Sarah shared duties, each taking six hour shifts.  In addition to steering the ship, they also taught whomever wanted to learn about the monitors and instruments and invited us to sit in the second chair.  Whenever anyone saw a polar bear…or a magnificent iceberg…or a family of musk oxen…Lauren or Alex would make an announcement over the PA, and most guests would run (well, as much as one can on those steep steps!) up to the bridge.  With cameras in hand, we’d open windows, step outside, or shoot through windows to capture the scene someone on the bridge found for us.  During slow times, we’d often hang out on the bridge, chatting, exchanging stories, laughing, learning.

Weather:  Arctic weather in the summer…cold but not freezing.  Layers.  Lots of layers!  We didn’t have rain, although the most cloudy day was August 12, the day of the eclipse 🌒.  What we felt, though, was the rolling and pitching of the water, especially when we crossed from Svalbard to Greenland.  Robin guided us to the north, just shy of 80°N, connecting Kinfish with pack ice to reduce currents and swells.  Until we got there, though, wowza!  That ship was a rockin’ and a rollin’!  Thank goodness for Scopolamine, the motion sickness patches I wore throughout the trip.  Although I felt the ship’s movement, I never felt sick.  The second night onboard when it was the worst, I didn’t feel ill; I did feel, though, a bit scared.  It was my first time on a small ship under those conditions.  I had confidence that everything was going to be okay, and I was a little freaked.  In the morning when we found the pack ice, everything calmed down, including my fears.

Itinerary:  Instead of doing a daily post, I’m going to sort my photos (and there are many!) into categories.  Below is the itinerary.

Photos:  My photos are grouped by topic rather than day.

Getting ready for this adventure, I studied up on how to photograph an eclipse.  I bought a special solar filter for my camera, purchased eclipse glasses, and over-prepared myself.  To no photographic avail!

Let me state now, however, that the eclipse was MAGICAL.

Yes, magical.

Robin positioned us as best as he could.  With cloud cover forecasted throughout East Greenland, he – in consultation with our guides-extraordinaire Lauren and Alex – had to decide if we push it to make it down to Scoresby Sund in time for the eclipse and the possibility, not probability, of clear skies – or enjoy the many fjords in the national park and hope the clouds disperse.  Robin, Alex, and Lauren spoke with all of us, presenting weather data and forecasts.  As a group, we felt rushing to Scoresby Sund – and being with the dozen of ships hanging out there – would not allow us to behold the spectacular scenery of East Greenland.  Robin had obtained a special permit for us to be in the national park, offering the mystique of solitude while avoiding the crowds of eclipse chasers.  The risk of rushing and not being guaranteed a clear view of the eclipse was too great.  We wanted a relaxed and memorable expedition with the chance of seeing the eclipse.

Eclipse Day arrived.  As did the clouds.  In the morning, we gathered on the deck for an Eclipse Dance, singing songs to clear the skies.  Lauren and Alex, who throughout our journey led talks with us on animals, geology, and culture, spoke about the cause of eclipses.  We watched a documentary.  We learned and studied.

We savored that day, wandering around the fjord in zodiacs, rejoicing at the majesty of the ice and cliffs, and pausing for a moment of quiet contemplation.  Next, we cavorted in the ice and water in our survival suits.  SO MUCH FUN!

Linn, our incredible hostess, set up the aft-deck for a party!  Tables, blankets, beverages, snacks, fairy lights…everything was festive!  As the time for the eclipse approached, the crew joined us.  It was truly a celebration!  When it was near time for the eclipse, Robin had the crew turn off everything.  No sounds, no lights.  Nothing.  The eclipse came.  Everything went dark.  The deck was silent.  Total darkness and total quiet.  Then the light returned.  We cheered!

It was a MAGICAL experience, shared with wonderful people.

 

 

 

 

 

*Deck photos courtesy of Nanine as I was “in the moment” and didn’t take any!

During the expedition, friends took a few photos of…me!

Wearing my warm suit and life jacket, I’m ready to explore the fjord via a zodiac.

 
On “Eclipse Day,” we donned survival suits for a super-fun time playing in the water and ice!  We floated, tried to climb on ice (I kept falling off), and made “stars.”  So much fun!!!

 

 

One day, we walked on the pack ice!

 

 

Other photos captured by friends…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This category includes images of human rather than natural creations…

This lookout site hangs out near the walrus haul-out

 

From Signehamna, the sight of a Nazi weather station

 

A fox trap

 

Outside a hut in Blomgsterbugten

 

Ella Ø Station: a remote historic outpost in Northeast Greenland National Park, now used as a summer base by Denmark’s Sirius Dog Sled Patrol and accessible only with special permission

 

A plane landing at Ella Ø Station

 

At the entrance to Scoresby Sund is the village of Ittoqqortoormiit where we had a walking tour and some time to wander

 

 

 

 

 

Oh, Lauren!

She was so excited to share the succulents at Romer Fjord with us!  Kinfish stopped in the fjord, Alex and Lauren scouted for bears, and we crossed the water in the zodiac to view the beautiful succulents.  While there, fog lifted across the fjord, revealing a polar bear, our fourteenth!, sunning itself on the other side of the fjord.

Uh oh!  What should we do?  Alex went down to the zodiac and stood guard.  (Alex and Lauren were ALWAYS armed, each carrying a pistol and rifle, to protect us from bears.  With their expertise, they train and certify other guides in polar bear safety and firearm handling.)

Lauren walked us to the aforementioned plants, gently and kindly hurrying us along.

As the bear began to enjoy the beach, we quickly climbed into the zodiac and retired to Kinfish.  Bear and humans:  all safe.  Succulents:  viewed and admired.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I didn’t realize how gorgeous icebergs are!  They are big, beautiful, colorful…amazing!!!

When we approached an exceptionally magnificent iceberg, Alex or Lauren would announce it over the PA.  Icebergs are that special, that extraordinary, that they deserve to be called out, appreciated, and photographed.

My favorite iceberg photos…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Those that know me, know that I kept a list of all of the animals I saw (see below).

Here are my favorite photos of animals I captured – with my lens!

Walruses (our first zodiac trip was to a walrus haul-out on our first day)

 

 

 

Musk Oxen

 

 

 

Arctic Hares

 

 

Ptarmigan

 

Seals

 

 

Pink-footed Goose

 

Kittiwake

 

Official list!

Non-birds:

  • Polar Bears (14)
  • Walrus
  • Blue whale
  • Humpback Whale
  • Reindeer (Svalbard)
  • Hooded seal
  • Ringed seal
  • Muskox
  • Arctic Hare
  • White-beaked Dolphins

Birds:

  • Little Auk (Dovekie)
  • Brunch Guillemot (Thick billed Murre)
  • Black Guillemot
  • Atlantic Puffin
  • Barnacle Goose
  • Common Eider
  • Great Skua
  • Arctic Skua (Parasitic Jaeger)
  • Black-legged Kittiwake
  • Ivory Gull
  • Glaucous Gull
  • Arctic Tern
  • Red-throated Loon (Diver)
  • Northern Fulmar
  • Snow Bunting
  • Ptarmigan
  • Pink-footed Goose

“Lisa, don’t plan on seeing any polar bears.”

Nanine warned me not to get too excited about seeing polar bears.  She said I may see some musk oxen, walruses, birds…but not to set my heart on seeing any polar bears.

We saw our first on Svalbard on our second day.  Then on Greenland we saw another.  And another.  And another.  In total, we saw 14 polar bears!!!

Even with a big zoom lens, my photos aren’t crisp, but here are some of my favorite polar bear pics!  Some images are of the same bear in different “poses”; others are of different bears.  

August 6:  First bear sighting (Ny Ålesund and the island Blomstrandhalvøya)

 

August 6:  Same bear doing downward dog…I mean, downward bear

 

August 6:  Same bear – rub my belly, please

 

August 6:  Same bear – look at those paws!

 

August 6:  Same bear – “Who you looking at?”

 

August 10:  First Greenland bear

 

August 10:  Same bear looking right at me…or so it seems!

 

August 11:  This bear, sighted on an isthmus while we were walking, required us to evacuate to Kinfish.  Alex and Lauren, using very calm yet higher pitched voices, directed us to retreat.  The photo is very cropped and blurry – how Lauren and Alex could see the bear from so far away is a mystery!

 

August 11:  Bear Convention!  We saw FIVE bears!!!  The guess is there was some carcass they were enjoying…or a meeting of the bear minds!

 

August 11:  Bear Convention – unusual to see bears together unless a mother and cub

 

August 11:  Bear Convention – those paws!

 

August 11:  Bear Convention – looking right at me and seeing…?

 

August 11:  Bear Convention – sitting like a doggie

 

August 11:  Bear Convention – walking over the rocks

 

August 13:  Mama bear and her cubs

The first time I saw Kinfish, it was pulling into port in Longyearbyen.  It looked so small to me, especially next to some of the larger cruise ships near it.  In time, however, I realized that its size was its strength.  Being a 12 passenger vessel, Kinfish has the maneuverability to explore places others vessels can only dream of.  Additionally, the size is large enough to provide comfort and space, especially the heart of the ship, the bridge.

First sighting of Kinfish

 

Kinfish with ice and glacier

 

Kinfish waiting for us while we walked on pack ice

 

Kinfish in a fjord as seen from one of many zodiac adventures

 

The Bridge:  Heart and Epicenter of Kinfish
Cadet Axel, Guide Alex, Captain Robin

 

First Mate Sarah

 

 

 

I climbed up the mast!

 

Reading and relaxing in the Survey Lounge

 

View of the water as reflected by a bridge window

 

Captain’s dinner – last night on Kinfish

 

Polar Bear ice cubes – reminding us of the 14 (yes, 14!) polar bears we saw!

 

Arriving in Akureyri

 

Farewell, Kinfish.  I already miss you!  (View from Akureyri.)