With two days in Dubai, we decided to explore Old Dubai on our first day and New Dubai on our second day.  Here are photos from our first day’s tour with the incomparable guide, Clyde.  He was quite diligent and careful while walking us around Dubai and keeping close tabs on us.  Such a sweetie!

While walking around, we met a man with two falcons – one on his arm and this one on a perch

 

A metal wall sculpture depicts a dagger – each emirate has its own shaped dagger

 

The old buildings have air pipes built in for cooling and are made of natural materials.  Only a few of the old buildings remain, and several of those have been revitalized and turned into museums and restaurants.

 

An alleyway

 

A minaret in the old part of the city

 

The souk

 

Built in 1787, this fort in Bur Dubai was once the monarch’s base, a fortified residence, a weapons arsenal and a prison, before being renovated during the reign of Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Al Maktoum.

 

“Dubai Creek has been described as a natural saltwater creek, tidal inlet, and watercourse or waterway in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. It extends about 9 miles inwards and forms a natural port that has traditionally been used for trade and transport.” (Source:  Wikipedia)

 

 

One of many community mosques, which the UAE builds and supports in communities throughout its seven emirates.

Planning ahead, we booked shore excursions at each port.  In Abu Dhabi, though, our “Abu Dhabi at Night” tour didn’t begin until 5:30pm.  On Lonely Planet, I discovered that Abu Dhabi hosts a synagogue at the Abrahamic Family house.  Further research uncovered that the Abrahamic Family House, opened in 2023, hosts a mosque, church, and synagogue.

What a beautiful place!  The history and insight shared by our guide created a warm and reflective experience. 

“The three houses of worship are designed of equal stature, size and materiality to eliminate any sense of hierarchy. The three structures border an elevated landscaped garden that becomes a shared space for gathering and connection.

The Mosque is oriented towards Mecca, the Church towards the East and the Synagogue towards Jerusalem.”

For more information about the site, click on this link.

St. Francis Church – pillars are straight up to the sky with a beautiful wooden ceiling.  “Through modern yet classic design features, the exterior columns emphasise verticality to express the concepts of incarnation (or descent) and resurrection (or ascent).”

 

Moses Ben Maimon Synagogue – notice the menorahs set for the seven-day week.  The menorah was the symbol for Judaism at the Abrahamic Family House rather than the Star of David.  I wonder if the star is tied too closely with Israel…  “The elegant, timeless design of the Synagogue draws on the symbol of the sukkah, a traditional shelter for prayer.”

 

Eminence Ahmed El-Tayeb Mosque – beautiful and simple with gorgeous light and design coming from the windows onto the carpeted floor.  “The Mosque’s elegant and minimalist design is made up of seven arches, reflecting the importance of the number seven in Islam.

 

Conservative dress with head covering is required when entering the mosque

 

A fountain with the creeds of all three religions written in Arabic, English, and Hebrew

 

Several museums are being built in the same neighborhood on Saadiyat Island.  According to one guide, Abu Dhabi is designed and developed for families with lots of open spaces and museums whereas Dubai is for playful adults.  The Guggenheim Museum is under construction.

 

During our Abu Dhabi at Night tour, we saw the already built Louvre Abu Dhabi

 

The Palace Hotel

 

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

 

A woman and a child at the Wahat Al Karama Memorial.  “Wahat Al Karama is a timeless tribute that honours the Emirati martyrs who sacrificed their lives in service of their country.”

“I’m just a girl who can’t say no!”

When Nanine asked me if I’d like to go with her on a 15-day cruise with Norwegian Cruise Line over the holidays starting in Doha and continuing to Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Seychelles, Madagascar, Reunion, and Mauritius, I said, “Yes.”  The timing worked out beautifully and the price was terrific.

My trip began with my driving up to San Francisco, picking Nanine up in Mountain View en route to the airport.  After an uneventful flight from San Francisco to JFK, we faced the gauntlet of misinformation, hurrying to the international terminal, and multiple layers of security to finally arrive at our departure gate.  Only to find out that our flight was delayed two hours.  Ultimately, we had a smooth flight from JFK to Doha, Qatar.  In Doha, Norwegian had arranged transport from the airport to the cruise port.  Since we were scheduled to arrive at 6:35am, we thought we’d figure out how to store our luggage, explore Doha, and embark at our check-in time of 4:00pm.  We did not know that Norwegian had other plans for us!  The shuttle company took us to the Hyatt in downtown Doha, where they stored our luggage and had a delicious buffet laid out for all of the travelers.  Transport from the hotel to the port would begin at 11:45am with five buses moving passengers until the final bus at 12:30pm.  After eating breakfast, we moved our luggage to the concierge, thinking we could NOT embark before 4:00pm and there MUST be enough for us to see until then.  Little did we know that jet lag and lack of sleep would hit us hard.  We wandered through the souk, walked along the Corniche, and looked at the scenery.  Then fatigue hit us hard.  Returning to the hotel and quickly retrieving our luggage, we were the only passengers on the final shuttle to the port.

At the port, we got into the long line of passengers waiting to embark, figuring we might get pulled out of line because we were early.  Wrong.  Nobody mentioned our “official” embarkation time while processing us.

Thus began our journey!

 

Sunrise through the plane’s window

 
Walking through the souk

 

One of many mosques

 

Views from the Corniche

 

 

The Pearl, an homage to pearl diving in the Arabian Gulf

 

Ah!  The Norwegian Dawn, our floating resort for two weeks!

 

Doha at night as seen from the Norwegian Dawn as we head out to our next port

December Photo Challenge

What a month! Not only did I finish my YEAR-LONG challenge, but I did so from the Indian Ocean. (See LINK for my travel log, which is being updated slowly due to cumbersome internet connectivity.)

Favorite photos this month?

D is for…: Maybe because I’m traveling, even with Sheila in the very capable hands of my sitter, but I am missing my sweet doggie. This photo of her makes me long for her even more.

Menorah: My five siblings and I try our best to gather every year for Chanukah. Although my dad died in 1989 and my mom in 2009, the six of us – along with our partners and children – endeavor to spend this one evening with each other. I love my siblings. Yes, we are all completely different. And, I know that if I need them, all I have to do is send out the word, and they’ll be there for me. Different yet together. Always.

Reflect: Taken along the Dubai Creek, I love the reflection of this wooden boat in the water during golden hour.

Wreath: For this photo, I wandered through my friends Astrid and Dennis’ home, capturing several of the wreaths decorated their abode. This wreath, a small heirloom, draws me in.

Tree: With the holidays, many of my photo prompts focused on Christmas. I know my version of “Tree” is not what was intended. However, I love this black & white photo of tree bark.

Wishes: It was hard thinking about how to photograph my wishes. I spent the day on my cruise and embarked on a stream of consciousness exploring all I want in life – family, friends, travel, community, etc. – and realized that fitness of mind, body, and spirit are essential to my achieving my wishes. So, I meandered up to the gym and took a photo of the sign on the door.

A Thought for Next Year: BALANCE! As portrayed by my very good friend and travel buddy, Nanine. This one, similar to “Wishes,” presented a challenge to my imagination and creativity. First, I had to reflect on what I’d like for 2025. Second, I had to figure out how to capture that thought. I realized that what I’d like for 2025 is to build balance into my life. Time with family and friends + time alone. Travel + enjoying being home. Spending money now + making sure I have enough resources for the future. Eating and drinking with abandon while traveling + eating and drinking healthfully when home. Exercising my body + feeling free to relax. Developing my photography skills + giving myself space and time to set aside my camera!

 

Header 1 Header 2 Header 3
December 1:  Silent Night December 12:  Twelve Things December 23:  Candy Cane
December 2:  Shoes December 13:  Sweater December 24:  Reflect
December 3:  Bracelet December 14:  Mood December 25:  Highlight
December 4:  D is for… December 15:  Transparent December 26:  Wishes
December 5:  Candles December 16:  Decorations December 27:  Food
December 6:  Wreath December 17:  Lights December 28:  Shiny
December 7:  Menorah December 18:  Tree December 29:  Joy
December 8:  Red December 19:  Winter December 30:  Flame
December 9:  Peace December 20:  Sparkles December 31: A Thought for Next Year
December 10:  Cookies December 21:  Presents  
December 11:  Gift Wrap December 22:  Santa  

December 1:  Silent Night

December 2:  Shoes

December 3:  Bracelet

December 4:  D is for…

December 5:  Candles

December 6:  Wreath

December 7:  Menorah

December 8:  Red

December 9:  Peace

December 10:  Cookies

December 11:  Gift Wrap

December 12:  Twelve Things

December 13:  Sweater

December 14:  Mood

December 15:  Transparent

December 16:  Decorations

December 17:  Lights

December 18:  Tree

December 19:  Winter

December 20:  Sparkles

December 21:  Presents

December 22:  Santa

December 23:  Candy Cane

December 24:  Reflect

December 25:  Highlight

December 26:  Wishes

December 27:  Food

December 28:  Shiny

December 29:  Joy

December 30:  Flame

December 31: A Thought for Next Year

Some childhood dreams are meant to be just that – dreams.  For example, when the TV show Emergency came out in 1972, I wanted to be a paramedic and even wrote the Los Angeles Fire Department inquiring about expectations and qualifications.  Ultimately, I chose another professional path.

Other childhood dreams are meant to be achievable goals.  Upon seeing camper vans as a high school student, I wanted a camper van.  In 2020, I fulfilled that dream when I bought Addie, my 2010 Chevy Roadtrek Versatile camper van.

Another childhood dream was to go on a safari.  I just accomplished that dream!

I love learning.  In planning this adventure, I knew I wanted to learn about the history and culture of Southern Africa.  I also knew I wanted to experience beautiful landscapes and natural wonders.  And, of course, with my budding interest in photography, I knew I wanted to improve my skills while capturing animals, especially the big game.

This safari adventure met all of my expectations!

The High Points

Big game:

I saw four of the Big Five – lions, rhinoceroses, elephants, and buffalo.  The leopard eluded me.  I also saw giraffes, zebras, hippopotami, springboks, oryxes, impalas, warthogs, wildebeests, kudus, hartebeests, baboons, wild dogs, and much much more!  (Yes, I have list:  47 different animals!)

 

Natural beauty:

Traveling almost 3,500 miles, I saw quite a lot of South Africa, Namibia, and Botswana, along with a bit of Zimbabwe and Zambia.  Leaning over Victoria Falls and observing the water falling mesmerized me.  It felt almost meditative to take in the Falls through all of my senses.  I thought I’d be scared; instead, I felt exhilarated.  Dune 45, in the Sossusvlei area of the Namib Desert in Namibia, remains one of my most powerful visual memories from this trip.  The colors, textures, and beauty of the dunes amaze me.

 

History and culture:

I felt I did my “homework” before this trip, having read Nelson Mandela’s Long Walk to Freedom, Alan Paton’s Cry, the Beloved Country, and most of James Michener’s The Covenant.  However, nothing is more valuable than actually immersing oneself in a place.  Spending time before meeting my group in Cape Town, touring the township of Mondesa near Swakopmund, and talking with our two guides helped me better understand the history and culture of Southern Africa.

 

Sunway Safaris:

The itinerary constructed by our tour company, Sunway Safaris, offered a WONDER every day!  There was a treat – an experience – to look forward to every single day of this three-week adventure.  Our guides, Sfiso and Sifiso, provided a safe, fun, and comfortable atmosphere while sharing their expansive knowledge and support.  Responsive, diligent, and humorous, I so appreciated having them guide me through this journey.

 

The Challenges

Group dynamics:

We had ten travelers for the first half of the trip, with one person leaving us (pre-planned) in Windhoek, Namibia.  There were three couples (two from Germany and one from France), two friends from England who met on a trip to Costa Rica, one person from Switzerland (the one who left in Windhoek), and me from California.  Everyone is well-traveled and intelligent.  We had, though, various levels of fluency in English although the trip was an English language trip.  This made authentic general conversation a bit difficult, especially at the start.  Also, deciding which and when to open windows for airflow in the Red Elephant (our truck – home away from home) challenged us. 

Bumpity bump bump:

Riding in the Red Elephant over some very long unpaved roads exhausted me.  I knew the trip would be rugged, but I didn’t realize how bumpy the roads would be.

Infrastructure:

I admit it.  I love having electricity and WiFi!  In the evenings, I enjoy reviewing, editing, and uploading my photos.  This was simply not possible every evening due to the lack of electricity and WiFi.  Not unexpected, of course!

 

Overview of Photos

To review my blog, one can start at the beginning and proceed to the end.  The first post is Welcome to Cape Town and Southern Africa!

Or…these are a few of the highlights of the trip…some of the posts contain more than what their category states…

Big game:

Etosha National Park: First game drive!

Etosha National Park: Full day game drive!

Chobe National Park: Afternoon Game Drive

Chobe National Park: Sunrise game drive and sunset river cruise

Makgadikgadi Pans National Park

Natural beauty:

Namib Desert

Orange and Fish Rivers

Cederberg

Canoeing, trekking, and cruising through the Okavango Delta

Flight from Maun over the Okavango Delta

Victoria Falls: Magnificent end to an amazing adventure

History and culture:

Welcome to Cape Town and Southern Africa!

Cape Town Private City Tour

Robben Island Tour

Swakopmund and the Township of Mondesa

Brandberg Mountain and the White Lady

Kalahari Desert and the San Bushman

Planning this adventure, I knew I wanted to photograph animals, learn about Southern Africa’s history and culture, experience natural beauty, and bookend my trip with Cape Town at the start and Victoria Falls at the conclusion.

Every day during this journey I’ve had some wonder to explore – and our final day at Victoria Falls was magnificent.

UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, Victoria Falls is a mile-long curtain of water on the Zambezi River in Zimbabwe and Zambia.

Our tour with a local guide began at the 1904 Victoria Bridge which links Zimbabwe and Zambia.

 

During the dry season, no water drops from the right-hand side of the Falls.

 

The left-hand side, though, is amazing!

 

After returning from our tour of the Falls from the Zimbabwe side, seven of the nine of us participated in the Devil’s Pool tour.  We were picked up at our hotel with that driver helping us through passport control to leave Zimbabwe and handing us over to a colleague on the Zambia side of the border who helped us with passport control in Zambia and drove us to the dock.  We then took a speedboat ride on the Zambezi River to Devil’s Pool, a rocky swimming pool at the top of the Falls with a view of the sheer drop off the side of the Falls.  Every five feet or so, a different guide would take our hand and help us over the rocks and in the pool.  Another guide photographed the whole experience.  Then, we had a delicious high tea before reversing the transportation and passport process.

Zambezi River from the speedboat.

 

 
A view of the Falls from the top!

 

Looking down on Zambezi River from the top of the Falls.

 

Climbing into Devil’s Pool.

 

All of us in the pool.

 

That’s a long way down!

 

This photo doesn’t do the experience justice.  Looking down at the power of the waterfall, listening to the sound of the rushing water, and smelling the fresh scents is an experience I will never forget.  I see it in my mind much stronger than is shown in photos.

 

So very very happy I concluded this Southern Africa safari with Victoria Falls and Devil’s Pool!

What an AMAZING final game drive day!

Chobe National Park is simply FABULOUS.

We started with an early morning game drive in a 4WD Jeep so we could see the lions wake up.  And we did!  Plus several other new and exciting animals, such as baboons.

Following the game drive, we returned to our lodge for breakfast and about an hour’s break before our river cruise.  For SEVEN HOURS, we enjoyed a relaxing voyage exploring the wildlife and scenery of the Chobe River.  With a three story boat all to ourselves, complete with lunch and open bar, we experienced the ultimate topper to our game drive adventure.

I have so many photos, I’m going to post them here in snapshot order!

First, from the morning game drive…

Baboons

 

 

Kudu

 

Impalas – and lots of them!

 

Elephant breeding group

 

Lions!  I lost count of how many lions we saw!  (We’re still missing the elusive leopard, though.)

 

 

 

 

Yellow-billed stork

 

African jacana

 

African fish eagle

 

Yellow-billed hornbill

 

Cape buffalo

 

Kudu

 

Giraffe

 

Next, from the river cruise…

Shoreline of the Chobe River

 

Cape buffalo

 

Stork

 

Elephant family drinking water simultaneously

 

Elephant climbing up onto land after swimming across the river

 

Warthogs

 

Crocodile

 

Hippopotami (they climbed out of the river, walked across the land a bit, and went back into the water)

 

View from our boat – three decks, full lunch, open bar – just for the ten of us!

 

Golden hour shoreline scenery

 

Gorgeous sunset on the Chobe River

Leaving the salt pans of Makgadikgadi and heading to the savanna of Chobe, I tried not to set my expectations too high.

After arriving at our lodge, where we’ll be for two nights, we went on an afternoon safari in a 4WD vehicle.

It did NOT disappoint!

WiFi is weak here, so I’m going to try to quickly post my photos.  Twenty this time rather than my usual ten (give or take!).

Steenbok

 

Helmeted Guineafowl

 

African Wild Dogs – rare and endangered!

 

 

Vulture looking for dinner – we saw elephant, giraffe, and baboon carcasses!

 

Warthogs

 

Are you looking at me?!

 
Impala

 

 

We saw THIRTEEN lions!!!  Eleven females…

 

 

…and two males resting together.

 

 

Red-billed Hornbill eating from elephant dung

 

Elephant family going for a stroll

 

Five red-billed ox peckers eating bugs off of a giraffe

 

Cape Buffalo

 

 

Hippopotamus on land

 

Lilac-breasted Roller

 

Kudu

From one UNESCO World Heritage Site to another!

Before entering Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, we had to get out of the Red Elephant, step into some disinfectant, and place our spare shoes in disinfectant, too.

After hopping back into the Red Elephant, we slowly traveled through the park, searching for animals on our way to Nata Lodge.

Although I had seen a warthog at Etosha, I didn’t get a photo.  This one is zoomed in and cropped a lot, but it is a warthog!

 

An ostrich leading MANY baby ostrich chicks!

 

I learned today that a wildebeest is also called a gnu! 🤦‍♀️

 

One from a line of four elephants walking along the road.

 

Using his tusks, this bull elephant pulled the cover off of a drain to drink the water.

 

Several zeals of zebras entertained us.

 

Why did the zebras cross the road?

 

Solo giraffe staring us down.

 

Giraffe family hesitant about us.

 

For sunset we took the Red Elephant to the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans. At the size of Switzerland, they are one of the biggest salt pans worldwide.

 

The salt pans are rustically beautiful.  Following some rain, flamingos and pelicans hang out.  We saw only gnus and a shrub hare.  With a thunderstorm over nearby Zimbabwe, the sunset over the pans was lovely and a bit eerie.

 

This photo captures the scenery well!

 

Kayla recorded a video of the thunderstorm, hoping for lightening to flash.  It did!  We screenshotted the moment the lightening lit up the sky.

 

Salt pans vamping!  With the heat, we most often wear our hair up, but for this photo we all let it hang loose.

I flew in my first small plane today!

For an hour, five of us joined our pilot (who looks like he’s about 12 years old AND is an amazingly competent pilot!) to view the Okavango from above.

The flight was smooth and easy.

The photography wasn’t.

I tried to capture what I saw which was impossible from the plane’s window and with the plane’s speed.

I know I saw elephants, hippos, cape buffalos, and wildebeests…

After a bit, it was best to put my camera down and just enjoy the scenery and take in the majesty of the Okavango.

 

Ready for takeoff.

 

The neighborhood surrounding the airport.  Some of the homes seem similar in size to sheds back home.

 
Textures, colors, and variety:  mesmerizing landscape.

 

 

 

Hippos?

 

Elephants.

 

One of many herds of Cape Buffalo.

 

Elephants?  Cape Buffalo?  Who knows?!  🤣

 

Safely back on ground.

Today, I explored the Okavango Delta via Mokoro canoe, foot, and boat.  What a fun way to see beautiful water and flora while viewing some new and different animals up close and personal – but with hippos not too close or personal.

In the Mokoro canoe, polers guided us.

 
Beautiful flora and water.

 

 

 

 

 

A baby crocodile.

 

A pod of hippos.

 

 

Hippo skull at our lodge – note the BIG teeth!

 

Locals fishing.

 

Blue Kingfisher.

 

African Eagle.

 

Pied Kingfisher

 

African Data.

 

Squacco Herons in flight.

 

Blacksmith Lepwing.

 

Another gorgeous African Sunset.

 

For the next two days, we get to experience the 1,000th UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Okavango Delta.  The Okavango is a vast and varied ecosystem created as the Okavango River flows into the Kalahari desert in Botswana.  It receives 70% of its water from Angola and 30% from rainfall.

Generally flat, with a height variation of less than two meters across its area, dry land in the Okavango Delta is predominantly comprised of numerous small islands, such as Mokoro Island, formed when vegetation takes root on termite mounds.

To arrive at Guma Lagoon Lodge in the Okavango Delta, we stopped at a “garage” area where we had lunch, chatted with six young boys watching us (I gave them colored pencils I brought with me), and left the Red Elephant behind for a couple of days.  A driver from our lodge with a four-wheeled drive cab pulling a trailer with two long benches took us over sandy delta land to our lodge.  It was a bumpy hour-long ride!

Our ride to the lodge.

 

The kids with their pencils and food we gave them.  After we finish eating, our guides give our leftovers to locals.

 

This old man will keep an eye on the Red Elephant while we’re gone.  I learned that calling someone an “Old Man” or “Old Lady” is respectful as it acknowledges their years of experience and wisdom.

 

Houses along the way.

 

Very sandy.

 

Donkeys provide transportation for people and goods.

 

A monkey peeked out to check on us.  Monkeys tend to eat elephant dung since elephants have poor digestive systems and leave much of the food they consume unchanged.

 

My tent cabin for two nights.  Much more comfortable than the one in Kalahari!

 

Relaxing on my deck.

 

Another beautiful African sunset.

Today, we drove from Windhoek to the border so we could exit Namibia and enter Botswana.  At our lodge, San Bushman demonstrated traditional hunting, gathering, and medicine.

Arriving in Botswana.

 

Our driver had to stop many times to allow goats, donkeys, cows, and horses to cross the road.

 

Donkeys enjoying the shade along the road.

 

Houses along the way.

 

Our lodge – each cabin has an outside bathroom.  Mine was a bit disgusting…and the room was very hot and stuffy.

 

San  Bushman dressed in traditional clothes.

 

Sharing how plants can be used for medicine.

 

Showing how to use soap plants for washing.

 

They created fire from rubbing two sticks together and lighting grass on fire.

 

Sunset from our lodge.

We left Etosha at about 8am and drove…and drove…and drove.  In the heat.  A/C not working.  Windows closed.  Tempers a bit…snippy.

Finally, we arrived in Windhoek, the capital of Namibia.  Also arrived?  A bit of a thunderstorm.

Regardless, we got out of the Red Elephant to see…

St. Mary’s Cathedral (closed when we arrived).

 

A view of the cathedral from the top of the Independence Memorial.  Notice our Red Elephant?

 

One of our two guides, Sifiso, and me walking up to Independence Memorial Museum (also closed) with a statue of founding president Sam Nujoma.  (Photo credit:  Carole)

 

Three panels around the base of the memorial depict Namibia’s history.

 

Riding up the elevator with Carole and Kayla to see the view from the Independence Memorial Museum’s rooftop restaurant.

 

A snapshot of the Parliament building from the rooftop.

 

The grounds of Terra Africa Guesthouse are beautiful.

 

Sunset from our guesthouse.

 

For dinner we went to Joe’s Beerhouse, a popular place for tourists.  Most evenings, Sfiso and Sifiso prepare dinner for us.  They’re terrific cooks!

 

Morning wake-up today:  5am!  A quick breakfast followed by sunrise at Etosha to see the animals before their afternoon siesta.

And what a treat it was!  We saw not only three of the Big 5, but we also saw many other amazing animals!

 

Lions!  At the end of the day, we saw two female lions resting in the shade of a tree.

 

Close to the exit of the park on our way out, we found a mama black rhinoceros and her baby!

 

We also saw a giraffe family – mama, baby, and daddy.

 

This baby elephant rests under its mama.

 

A busy waterhole attracted a herd of zebras and a swarm of many other animals!

 

Across from the lions, a huge confusion of wildebeest.  Behind them lies the Etosha Pan, a vast, bare, open expanse of shimmering green and white that covers around 4,800km, almost a quarter of the park.

 

A close-up of a wildebeest.

 

We waited at a waterhole for over an hour watching this male (yes, you can tell by the photo!) elephant lumber across the park to get a refreshing drink.

 

Also at this waterhole, kudus satiated their thirst.

 
A herd of red hartebeests hung out at another waterhole.