Author: Lisa

It’s been about a week since I’ve been home, so I’ve had a bit of time to reflect on this AMAZING adventure.

Travel companions

My group?  They are the BEST!  I couldn’t have asked for a better group! Fourteen smart, well-traveled, fun, and interesting people from the UK, Canada, and the US. About half married, about half solo (some partnered, some not). Average age approximately 52, youngest 35, oldest 70. Around half male, half female.  ALL PHENOMENAL!!!

Additionally, our guides ROCKED!  Kind, helpful, knowledgeable.  They did everything they could to make us feel welcomed, appreciated, safe.

Fourteen amazing people!

G Adventures

G Adventures offers several different styles of travel – Classic, 18-Thirtysomething, Family, etc.  I chose National Geographic Journeys with G Adventures.  (“National Geographic Journeys with G Adventures is a collection of unique tours designed to take you deeper into the cultures and habitats of the places we explore. They offer more inclusions compared to other G Adventures Travel Styles, greater hands-on exploration, interactions with local experts, and the freedom to roam, all within the structure and security of travelling in a small group.”)

This was a great choice!  The itinerary includes both adventure – Inca Trail – and many cultural interactions and explorations.  Plus, our accommodations were upgraded.  My roommate had been on three previous G Adventures trips, all Classic, and will now only sign up for the Nat Geo trips. I highly recommend take a National Geographic Journey with G!

Leo, Inca Lead Guide, with his “bible”

Sights

Of course, I had heard of Machu Picchu before booking this trip.  What I heard, though, could never fully represent the ENORMITY and AWE of this inspiring sight!  Yep, it’s a place one MUST see in order to fully comprehend!

Along with the magnificence of Machu Picchu, I saw other Inca ruins, a Huaca Pucllana pyramid, and many pre-Inca sites.

Furthermore, I saw some gorgeous murals, churches, parks, etc. 

One thing I’ve noticed…when I first started traveling, I fell in love with colonial buildings and plazas.  For example, Spanish buildings are in Spain (duh!), Mexico, and Peru. The effects of colonialism are prevalent throughout the world.  I’m ready to see “different” – different architecture, different city layouts, different homes, different cultures.

Machu Picchu – exceeded all of my expectations!

Weather

We were so fortunate to have terrific weather!  It rained hard the last night on the Inca Trail, changing to a light drizzle by morning and stopping before we hiked to Machu Picchu.  Other than that, the weather in Lima, Cusco, and on the Trail was the perfect temperature.  The rainforest, of course, was what one would expect – hot and humid.

Fabulous weather for hiking and exploring

Culture

What I love most about traveling is meeting people of different cultures, learning about them, and experiencing their foods, drinks, and lifestyles.  On this trip, our guides – Katy, Leo, Elvis, Leo, and Gina – shared their lives and culture with us.  Additionally, I had the great opportunity to chat with Adriana, my private photography guide, and learn about her, her profession, and her life.  As well, I chatted with others I met informally during my travels.

Something that completely engaged me was the spiritual illuminations my Inca Trail guide, Leo, shared with us.  He not only provided factual information and explanations, but he also linked everything to Quechuan religion, spirituality, and community.  So enlightening and meaningful!

One of many cultural experiences

Spanish

At the beginning of the year when I traveled to Mexico, I was the only one of the eight of us who spoke NO Spanish.  I felt like an idiot!  I hate that feeling, so I’ve been studying Spanish using the Duolingo app for now 265 days.  I was shocked at how well I could communicate on this trip!  My accent is horrible, my grammar needs lots of work, and my vocabulary is weak.  Nonetheless, I was able to communicate in Spanish most of the time when needed.  This included on public transportation, in restaurants, and bargaining in the market.  What a big difference!

What I’d love to do – in the next year or two – is take a Spanish language course in a Spanish-speaking country for a month while also taking some photography lessons.  Perhaps Cusco in 2025??  🙂

Yay for Duolingo!

Gratitude

I feel immensely grateful for everyone I met, for the privilege of being able to travel, for my body’s ability to hike and persevere.  Traveling opens my world up to the beauty of other cultures, people, and scenery.  This trip, although at times exhausting and challenging, was simply AMAZING!!!

At the top of Dead Woman’s Pass, almost 14,000 feet

One of the “rules”* about photography is each image should tell a story.  After Machu Picchu, I spent an additional three days in Cusco and took over 500 photos.  Culling them to my usual ten for this post: impossible!  Instead, I share 24 photos, each of them helping to tell the story of this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Around the corner from my hotel is an intersection where, at the corner, this mural resides.

 

Wanting to walk and reflect on the Monday of Yom Kippur, Katy (our CEO Extraordinaire!) suggested I explore the art district of San Blas. Here, I found this terrific sculpture.

 

Many doors are painted my favorite color.  Katy said they’re a carry-over from when Palestinians lived in the neighborhood and painted their doors blue.

 

This mural in the San Blas district shows the beautiful with the practical.

 

In the San Cristobal neighborhood, this building joins two staircases.

 

A young woman, surrounded by arches, taking a break.

 

All over Cusco are women, dressed in traditional garb, toting alpacas and charging visitors for photos.

 

The next morning, I headed to San Pedro Market, a traditional marketplace, to buy some gifts, souvenirs, and an additional bag to carry items.  Since I usually travel with a daypack and a carry-on, I often have no room for additional items!

 

In the Inca Museum, a display demonstrates how mummies are placed in the fetal position to be ready for their rebirth.

 

I love the mural in our hotel’s courtyard!

 

It’s hard work keeping the gardens fresh in the Plaza de Armas.

 

The day after my photography tour and lesson, I wandered around practicing “street photography.” This mama, with her toddler on her back, taking her son to school is like moms in many places!

 

Street vendor serving this man his breakfast.

 

Wherever there’s a doorway or archway, I always like to see what I can capture with my camera!

 

Incan architects knew how to cut and place stones so no mortar is needed and the buildings hold up even in earthquakes. Although these blocks separated, the temple remains.

 

Leo told us about the Condor (representing the heavens), the Puma (middle world of earth), and the Snake (underworld).  In the lawn outside the Sun Temple, these symbols are etched into the lawn.

 

Outside the Sun Temple, now with Church of Santo Domingo on top of it, are three eras of stone: Pre-Inca, Inca, Spanish.

 

In the gallery of the church, I saw this painting representing the center of the universe and all that flows from it.

 

Spanish architecture – decorative columns.

 

View of Cusco’s hills from the second floor of the church.

 

Cusco through the bell towers arches.

 

Another view of Cusco from the bell tower.

 

Quipu: Quipus were the main system employed by the Incas to record information. The knotted cords were used to record countable information. The colors, knots and the distances between the knots enabled those who used the quipus to identify the type of object or the characteristics of the population being recorded.

 

From the Martin Chambi exhibit in the Machu Picchu Museum – I love his use of Black & White and using an arch for framing.  Martín Chambi Jiménez was a Peruvian photographer, originally from Puno, in southern Peru. He was one of the first major Indigenous Latin American photographers.

*Another “rule” is that rules are meant to be broken!

For my “treat within a treat,” I booked a private half-day photography tour in Cusco through Amazonas Explorer.

And what a treat it was!  Professional photographer Adriana Peralta met me at my hotel.  After showing her some of my favorite photos I’ve captured, we set off for the San Bas District via Plaza de Armas.

The experience was as much a “tour” as a private photography lesson.  Not only did our personalities mesh, but also she shoots with a Fujifilm camera.  She was, therefore, able to explain and teach me various settings for different types of photos.  Additionally, after capturing shots I generally like to shoot (wide open aperture with shallow depth of field, frame-within-a-frame through doorways and archways, etc.), she taught me street photography.  I learned settings for street, along with how to hold my camera and focus tips.

My favorites out of over 150 photos:

We began in Plaza de Armas where I captured this on the cathedral.

 

A famous block with 12 sides.  Amazing Inca architecture!

 

A little bit of street, a little bit of archway!

 

A courtyard showcasing many artists.

 

One of many murals.  I captured only part of this very large mural as I love the expression on the child’s face.

 

I love how this older couple is holding hands going down the stairs.

 

Adriana teaching how to use sunlight and focus in street photography.

 

A little kid playing in front of a mural.

 

This couple didn’t know I was snapping away and capturing their smiles.

 

It behooves me how cars can move down these narrow streets!  And this one with bikes on top!

 

Her eyes!

 

Adriana and I took a break in a cafe for drinks and crepes, which is where I caught this mother and daughter chatting.

 

Yum yum!

 

As the sun set, it was time for Adriana and me to connect on WhatsApp and Instagram so we can continue to share photography.  🙂

Sometimes by having high expectations, I’m setting myself up to be disappointed.  With Machu Picchu, I not only had high expectations but the site exceeded those!

Waking up early – 3:20am – with light rain falling, we walked to where we would wait an hour to hike 3.5 miles to the Sun Gate, our entrance to Machu Picchu.  In line with about 200 other trekkers, the rain stopped, I ate my somewhat meager breakfast, and everyone exhibited a strong sense of excitement.

Soon, the line moved and the hike began.  This day’s hike was relatively easy, with a surprise of a few ruins to see along the way.

Then, there it was!  MACHU PICCHU! While waiting to take our classic photos, with tears of awe rolling down my cheeks, we witnessed the clouds slowly lifting, treating us to the majesty of these phenomenal ruins.  BEAUTIFUL! AMAZING! INSPIRING!

Classic photo taken just as the clouds lifted

 

Greeting us: llamas!

 

Our Inca Trail lead guide, Leo, with his “bible” telling us the story of Machu Picchu

 

Machu Picchu!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

A chinchilla chilling in the ruins

This around twenty-six mile hike, over four days, both challenged and mesmerized me.

Day 1‘s moderate hike, about 7 miles, started at the official checkpoint called “Kilometer 82.” There were several ruins and distractions along the route, making the hike seem relatively easy.  We learned to walk on the mountain-side of the trail whenever we saw porters.  As people yelled “Porters!,” the group would move over so the many porters could pass us by with their heavy packs on their backs.

This group of 11 amazing individuals coalesced into the BEST hiking team!  Sexy Llamas, I miss you!!!

 

Kilometer 82: Ready, set, GO!

 

Leo, our Lead Guide, with his “bible,” a book with photos to share as he explains ruins and culture to us

 

Inca ruins on the trail

 

A turkey welcoming us to the Inca Trail

 

Donkeys blocking the trail

 

A woman feeding her animals at our lunch stop

 

Our first campsite

 

Eleven of us hikers meant 19 support people! Two guides (Leo and Gina), two chefs, and 14 porters!  On the first night, we all introduced ourselves.

Day 2 KICKED MY BUTT!  Sure, it was only 7.5 miles, but climbing to 13,769 feet challenged me.  A few steps, stop and breathe, a few more steps, stop and breathe.  Rinse and repeat.  When I got up to the top, everyone cheered (which I learned they/we do for everyone who reaches the summit).  Gina, our assistant guide, gave me a congratulatory hug – and I collapsed sobbing into her arms. [Note: fewer photos since I focused on the climb and not taking pics!]

So happy the hiking was over for the day!

 

Day 2’s campsite

 

A couple of pics taken of the Andes while wandering around camp

 

Day 3‘s ten-mile hike was my favorite!  Although it was the longest of the hikes, the microclimates kept changing, we had ruins to enjoy, and the trekking was fun!  That night, we had our first big storm.  Good thing it cleared up by the morning!

Good morning, Day 3!

 

So many cool ruins to see on Day 3’s trek!

 

 

 

Cloud forest

 

Porters!

 

Much happier hiking on Day 3 than on Day 2

 

Our third campsite – the ledge was very close to our tent doors – I was afraid I might fall when I got out (especially at night)

 

The view from camp was wonderful, though!

 

And the food?  Magnificent!  It was Helen’s birthday on Day 3, and the chefs baked her a CAKE!!!  Without an oven!!!  One of the best cakes I’ve ever had!

Day 4.  What a day!  We were woken at 3:20am to get a very early start and so our porters could make their 5:30am train.  We ate our packed breakfast while waiting in line for an hour (4:30-5:30am) before commencing our 3.5 miles hike to Machu Picchu.  The trail was beautiful, easy, and exciting.  Details and photos of Machu Picchu will be in my next blog post!

From the rainforest, we reversed our transportation – this time, canoe to bus to plane – flying from Puerto Maldonado to Cusco, so we could acclimate to the higher altitudes.  Spending time in Cusco, at 11,152 feet, helps hikers handle the higher elevations of the Inca Trail.

After a delicious dinner in Cusco, we hopped onto a bus for a wild ride (lots of fast turns!) to the Cusco Planetarium.  Here, we compared the skies of the northern vs. southern hemispheres while learning about how the Incas used astronomy and the cosmos to guide their lives. 

The next day, we packed and got on a bus to the Sacred Valley. Our first stop was the ruins of Pisac, our introduction to Inca ruins.  Next, we visited the Parque de la Papa, or Potato Park, a rural Andean community working to preserve hundreds of varieties of native potato. After a delicious lunch at the Parwa Community Restaurant, we headed to the Ollantaytambo ruins.  Climbing up the ruins was our first “test” – Katy (our CEO) and Leo (our Inca Trail guide) covertly assessed our fitness for the Inca Trail.  🙂

That evening, we stayed at a gorgeous lodge in Urubamba, just outside of Ollantaytambo. 

It was time to pack, yet again. In Puerto Maldonado before the rainforest, we separated what we needed from what we stored at the Puerto Maldonado office.  For the Inca Trail, we had to decide what we NEEDED for the hike.  Porters carry about 55-60 pounds (25 kilograms) on their backs, including our personal items, sleeping bags, sleeping pads, tents, food, etc.  We were each allowed no more than six kilos in a small duffel bag, 2.5 kilos for our sleeping bag and pad and 3.5 kilos of our personal items.  Everything else, we needed to leave at the office or carry in our daypack!

Mural at our restaurant in Cusco

 

Sacred Valley and introduction to Inca ruins

 

 

 

 

Alpacas – they have short legs and necks and very soft fur

 

“Is Your Mama a Llama?” – a favorite book I read to my kids!

 

At the Parque de la Papa, this wonderful young woman talked with us about Quechuan culture and potato cultivation

 

She used this table to share how the Quechuan people use the calendar to prepare, plant, and harvest potatoes

 

There are over 4,000 varieties of potatoes in Peru!

 

Demonstrating how to make dyes and soap

 

 

When thinking about Peru and where I wanted to visit, in addition to Machu Picchu of course!, I knew I wanted to see the Amazon Rainforest.

Rainforest…what comes to mind…?  Lots of plants, some different animals, and heat.  What did I experience?  A variety of plants, intriguing animals, and hot and humid conditions!  Over 102 degrees with 95% humidity!

Our G-Adventure group, consisting of 14 fabulous travelers and one amazing CEO (Chief Experience Officer), flew from Lima to Puerto Maldonado.  From the airport, we took a bus…and then a motorized canoe!  In the boat, Leo and Elvis, our rainforest guides, frequently asked the boat operator to stop so we could see tropical animals during our two-hour float. That evening, we went on a night walk to see what was hiding under the stars.  The next day, we walked into the forest.  Our final evening, we climbed into the canoe and found four caimans!

Some of the fauna we saw:  capybara, side necked turtle, quetzal, white caimans, parakeets, macaws, weber birds, jungle cows, horned screamers (birds) – plus a vast array of insects!

Only a few of my photos came out okay enough to share…

On the canoe…

 

Berry-painted face

 

Our gorgeous lodge – each bed had mosquito netting

 

Flora at the lodge and on our hikes

 

 

 

 

Brazil – I mean, Peru! – nuts

 

Lots and lots of fauna!

 

 

 

 

 

 

For my final day in Lima before meeting my G-Adventures travel group, I walked down to the beach and then to the Huaca Pucllana pyramid and ruins.

Statue welcoming me to the beach

 

Surfers – and surfing schools – filled the waters off of Miraflores

 

Three people relaxing

 

Beautiful!

 

Hang-glider

 

Very dry climate!  I’m also curious how the hills don’t slide into the ocean…

 

Huaca Pucllana Pyramid: “Built by millions of adobe bricks, these ruins once served as an administrative center and a pre-Inca ceremonial site dedicated to the God Pachacamac.“

 

Huaca Pucllana is surrounded by modern buildings

 

Huaca Pucllana ruins

 

Llama hanging out at Huaca Pucllana

A few general observations before I share today’s meanderings:

1. I am officially old.  On the bus, a twenty-something young woman gave up her seat for me – and I took it.  While walking back to the hotel from the bus station, a panhandler called me “abuela.” Nonetheless, if this is how old feels, I’ll take it! 😊
2. Lima is a big city – 12 million people.  Not only does the mass of bodies remind me of New York, so does the number of people looking at their phones while walking remind me of NY!  Hey, people, everywhere – move out of the flow of traffic if you need to look at your phone!
3. Colonial architecture is similar everywhere…Spain, Mexico, Peru… Traveling brings colonization to life…

Now, to today’s wanderings… My Lonely Planet book listed a Lima City Walk. I took a photo of the page, instead of carrying the heavy book, and traveled on the metro express bus from Miraflores to Lima. My general frustration with public transportation was somewhat abated after I spoke to my hotel’s receptionist. She gave me paper maps and explained to me, as if I were a third grader, how to maneuver the transit system.  Of course, I still went into a bank to get my transit card instead of the metro station! 🤦‍♀️

Once, I got off of the bus, I explored Lima – plazas, a cathedral, a monastery, central market, etc.

In the Cathedral of Lima, I had an English-speaking guide.  I understood maybe half of what he said.  In the monastery, I didn’t know if they had English tours, so I joined a Spanish tour, understanding maybe 5% of what she said…however, each room had a sign in English which helped!

Around Lima are public art pieces. My cathedral guide said that women in early Peru were covered up as much as women in Afghanistan, allowed to show only one eye.  These sculptures commemorate that time period.

 

Under construction…

 

Playing with Black & White photography while perambulating around Lima

 

Presidential Palace – guards on-duty

 

In the Cathedral of Lima, the remains of Francisco Pizarra are buried in this coffin. In preparation for this trip, I listened to The Trail of the Incas by Kim MacQuarrie on Audible. The story of the Pizarra brothers – wowza!

 

In the crypt under the cathedral are many coffins, including those of children. My guide said children were buried closest to the top so they had an easy and quick way to heaven.

 

Due to the influence of Moors, the tile work is similar to Lisbon and other cities I’ve visited.

 

Across the Parque de Muralla, I saw these homes nested into the hillside, similar, according to the server in my restaurant, to Brazil’s favelas.

 

The old city wall, as seen from above the Parque de Muralla.

 

Outside the Franciscan monastery. Inside the monastery, we could not take photos. If I could have, I guess I would have taken photos of the bones and skulls laid out in the catacombs. There were so many!

Before leaving home, I found a self-guided walking tour posted by a blogger. What a wonderful way to see this part of Lima! The murals, especially those in Barranco, topped my sights for the day. Also very cool, while in the Museum of Contemporary Art, the curator chatted with me about their new exhibition on COLOR. So nice to talk with the person who chose the pieces about what she chose and why.

A little side note: I’m on Day 248 of “learning” Spanish on DuoLingo. Silly, I know, but after being the only one who spoke NO Spanish when I was in Mexico, I decided it was time for me to learn the language. I’ve been using what I know while here – with many smiles and some laughter exchanged between my conversant and me! It’s been fun and useful to have at least some familiarity with the language. 😊

Miraflores

 

 

 

Museum of Contemporary Art

 

 

Barranco