Author: Lisa

Sometimes by having high expectations, I’m setting myself up to be disappointed.  With Machu Picchu, I not only had high expectations but the site exceeded those!

Waking up early – 3:20am – with light rain falling, we walked to where we would wait an hour to hike 3.5 miles to the Sun Gate, our entrance to Machu Picchu.  In line with about 200 other trekkers, the rain stopped, I ate my somewhat meager breakfast, and everyone exhibited a strong sense of excitement.

Soon, the line moved and the hike began.  This day’s hike was relatively easy, with a surprise of a few ruins to see along the way.

Then, there it was!  MACHU PICCHU! While waiting to take our classic photos, with tears of awe rolling down my cheeks, we witnessed the clouds slowly lifting, treating us to the majesty of these phenomenal ruins.  BEAUTIFUL! AMAZING! INSPIRING!

Classic photo taken just as the clouds lifted

 

Greeting us: llamas!

 

Our Inca Trail lead guide, Leo, with his “bible” telling us the story of Machu Picchu

 

Machu Picchu!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

A chinchilla chilling in the ruins

This around twenty-six mile hike, over four days, both challenged and mesmerized me.

Day 1‘s moderate hike, about 7 miles, started at the official checkpoint called “Kilometer 82.” There were several ruins and distractions along the route, making the hike seem relatively easy.  We learned to walk on the mountain-side of the trail whenever we saw porters.  As people yelled “Porters!,” the group would move over so the many porters could pass us by with their heavy packs on their backs.

This group of 11 amazing individuals coalesced into the BEST hiking team!  Sexy Llamas, I miss you!!!

 

Kilometer 82: Ready, set, GO!

 

Leo, our Lead Guide, with his “bible,” a book with photos to share as he explains ruins and culture to us

 

Inca ruins on the trail

 

A turkey welcoming us to the Inca Trail

 

Donkeys blocking the trail

 

A woman feeding her animals at our lunch stop

 

Our first campsite

 

Eleven of us hikers meant 19 support people! Two guides (Leo and Gina), two chefs, and 14 porters!  On the first night, we all introduced ourselves.

Day 2 KICKED MY BUTT!  Sure, it was only 7.5 miles, but climbing to 13,769 feet challenged me.  A few steps, stop and breathe, a few more steps, stop and breathe.  Rinse and repeat.  When I got up to the top, everyone cheered (which I learned they/we do for everyone who reaches the summit).  Gina, our assistant guide, gave me a congratulatory hug – and I collapsed sobbing into her arms. [Note: fewer photos since I focused on the climb and not taking pics!]

So happy the hiking was over for the day!

 

Day 2’s campsite

 

A couple of pics taken of the Andes while wandering around camp

 

Day 3‘s ten-mile hike was my favorite!  Although it was the longest of the hikes, the microclimates kept changing, we had ruins to enjoy, and the trekking was fun!  That night, we had our first big storm.  Good thing it cleared up by the morning!

Good morning, Day 3!

 

So many cool ruins to see on Day 3’s trek!

 

 

 

Cloud forest

 

Porters!

 

Much happier hiking on Day 3 than on Day 2

 

Our third campsite – the ledge was very close to our tent doors – I was afraid I might fall when I got out (especially at night)

 

The view from camp was wonderful, though!

 

And the food?  Magnificent!  It was Helen’s birthday on Day 3, and the chefs baked her a CAKE!!!  Without an oven!!!  One of the best cakes I’ve ever had!

Day 4.  What a day!  We were woken at 3:20am to get a very early start and so our porters could make their 5:30am train.  We ate our packed breakfast while waiting in line for an hour (4:30-5:30am) before commencing our 3.5 miles hike to Machu Picchu.  The trail was beautiful, easy, and exciting.  Details and photos of Machu Picchu will be in my next blog post!

From the rainforest, we reversed our transportation – this time, canoe to bus to plane – flying from Puerto Maldonado to Cusco, so we could acclimate to the higher altitudes.  Spending time in Cusco, at 11,152 feet, helps hikers handle the higher elevations of the Inca Trail.

After a delicious dinner in Cusco, we hopped onto a bus for a wild ride (lots of fast turns!) to the Cusco Planetarium.  Here, we compared the skies of the northern vs. southern hemispheres while learning about how the Incas used astronomy and the cosmos to guide their lives. 

The next day, we packed and got on a bus to the Sacred Valley. Our first stop was the ruins of Pisac, our introduction to Inca ruins.  Next, we visited the Parque de la Papa, or Potato Park, a rural Andean community working to preserve hundreds of varieties of native potato. After a delicious lunch at the Parwa Community Restaurant, we headed to the Ollantaytambo ruins.  Climbing up the ruins was our first “test” – Katy (our CEO) and Leo (our Inca Trail guide) covertly assessed our fitness for the Inca Trail.  🙂

That evening, we stayed at a gorgeous lodge in Urubamba, just outside of Ollantaytambo. 

It was time to pack, yet again. In Puerto Maldonado before the rainforest, we separated what we needed from what we stored at the Puerto Maldonado office.  For the Inca Trail, we had to decide what we NEEDED for the hike.  Porters carry about 55-60 pounds (25 kilograms) on their backs, including our personal items, sleeping bags, sleeping pads, tents, food, etc.  We were each allowed no more than six kilos in a small duffel bag, 2.5 kilos for our sleeping bag and pad and 3.5 kilos of our personal items.  Everything else, we needed to leave at the office or carry in our daypack!

Mural at our restaurant in Cusco

 

Sacred Valley and introduction to Inca ruins

 

 

 

 

Alpacas – they have short legs and necks and very soft fur

 

“Is Your Mama a Llama?” – a favorite book I read to my kids!

 

At the Parque de la Papa, this wonderful young woman talked with us about Quechuan culture and potato cultivation

 

She used this table to share how the Quechuan people use the calendar to prepare, plant, and harvest potatoes

 

There are over 4,000 varieties of potatoes in Peru!

 

Demonstrating how to make dyes and soap

 

 

When thinking about Peru and where I wanted to visit, in addition to Machu Picchu of course!, I knew I wanted to see the Amazon Rainforest.

Rainforest…what comes to mind…?  Lots of plants, some different animals, and heat.  What did I experience?  A variety of plants, intriguing animals, and hot and humid conditions!  Over 102 degrees with 95% humidity!

Our G-Adventure group, consisting of 14 fabulous travelers and one amazing CEO (Chief Experience Officer), flew from Lima to Puerto Maldonado.  From the airport, we took a bus…and then a motorized canoe!  In the boat, Leo and Elvis, our rainforest guides, frequently asked the boat operator to stop so we could see tropical animals during our two-hour float. That evening, we went on a night walk to see what was hiding under the stars.  The next day, we walked into the forest.  Our final evening, we climbed into the canoe and found four caimans!

Some of the fauna we saw:  capybara, side necked turtle, quetzal, white caimans, parakeets, macaws, weber birds, jungle cows, horned screamers (birds) – plus a vast array of insects!

Only a few of my photos came out okay enough to share…

On the canoe…

 

Berry-painted face

 

Our gorgeous lodge – each bed had mosquito netting

 

Flora at the lodge and on our hikes

 

 

 

 

Brazil – I mean, Peru! – nuts

 

Lots and lots of fauna!

 

 

 

 

 

 

For my final day in Lima before meeting my G-Adventures travel group, I walked down to the beach and then to the Huaca Pucllana pyramid and ruins.

Statue welcoming me to the beach

 

Surfers – and surfing schools – filled the waters off of Miraflores

 

Three people relaxing

 

Beautiful!

 

Hang-glider

 

Very dry climate!  I’m also curious how the hills don’t slide into the ocean…

 

Huaca Pucllana Pyramid: “Built by millions of adobe bricks, these ruins once served as an administrative center and a pre-Inca ceremonial site dedicated to the God Pachacamac.“

 

Huaca Pucllana is surrounded by modern buildings

 

Huaca Pucllana ruins

 

Llama hanging out at Huaca Pucllana

A few general observations before I share today’s meanderings:

1. I am officially old.  On the bus, a twenty-something young woman gave up her seat for me – and I took it.  While walking back to the hotel from the bus station, a panhandler called me “abuela.” Nonetheless, if this is how old feels, I’ll take it! 😊
2. Lima is a big city – 12 million people.  Not only does the mass of bodies remind me of New York, so does the number of people looking at their phones while walking remind me of NY!  Hey, people, everywhere – move out of the flow of traffic if you need to look at your phone!
3. Colonial architecture is similar everywhere…Spain, Mexico, Peru… Traveling brings colonization to life…

Now, to today’s wanderings… My Lonely Planet book listed a Lima City Walk. I took a photo of the page, instead of carrying the heavy book, and traveled on the metro express bus from Miraflores to Lima. My general frustration with public transportation was somewhat abated after I spoke to my hotel’s receptionist. She gave me paper maps and explained to me, as if I were a third grader, how to maneuver the transit system.  Of course, I still went into a bank to get my transit card instead of the metro station! 🤦‍♀️

Once, I got off of the bus, I explored Lima – plazas, a cathedral, a monastery, central market, etc.

In the Cathedral of Lima, I had an English-speaking guide.  I understood maybe half of what he said.  In the monastery, I didn’t know if they had English tours, so I joined a Spanish tour, understanding maybe 5% of what she said…however, each room had a sign in English which helped!

Around Lima are public art pieces. My cathedral guide said that women in early Peru were covered up as much as women in Afghanistan, allowed to show only one eye.  These sculptures commemorate that time period.

 

Under construction…

 

Playing with Black & White photography while perambulating around Lima

 

Presidential Palace – guards on-duty

 

In the Cathedral of Lima, the remains of Francisco Pizarra are buried in this coffin. In preparation for this trip, I listened to The Trail of the Incas by Kim MacQuarrie on Audible. The story of the Pizarra brothers – wowza!

 

In the crypt under the cathedral are many coffins, including those of children. My guide said children were buried closest to the top so they had an easy and quick way to heaven.

 

Due to the influence of Moors, the tile work is similar to Lisbon and other cities I’ve visited.

 

Across the Parque de Muralla, I saw these homes nested into the hillside, similar, according to the server in my restaurant, to Brazil’s favelas.

 

The old city wall, as seen from above the Parque de Muralla.

 

Outside the Franciscan monastery. Inside the monastery, we could not take photos. If I could have, I guess I would have taken photos of the bones and skulls laid out in the catacombs. There were so many!

Before leaving home, I found a self-guided walking tour posted by a blogger. What a wonderful way to see this part of Lima! The murals, especially those in Barranco, topped my sights for the day. Also very cool, while in the Museum of Contemporary Art, the curator chatted with me about their new exhibition on COLOR. So nice to talk with the person who chose the pieces about what she chose and why.

A little side note: I’m on Day 248 of “learning” Spanish on DuoLingo. Silly, I know, but after being the only one who spoke NO Spanish when I was in Mexico, I decided it was time for me to learn the language. I’ve been using what I know while here – with many smiles and some laughter exchanged between my conversant and me! It’s been fun and useful to have at least some familiarity with the language. 😊

Miraflores

 

 

 

Museum of Contemporary Art

 

 

Barranco

 

 

In Alaska earlier this year to see the Northern Lights, I created a list of places I’d love to explore. I’ve wanted to return to South America after my visit to Chile in 2008. One of my best friends saw Machu Picchu last year, reigniting my interest in South America, especially Peru and Machu Picchu. So, of course, I included Peru on my list.

After a 21-hour travel day, I arrived – the beginning of a 16 day adventure!

Yes, unless eating or drinking, I wore my mask…