Maybe because I didn’t sleep well last night, even though I was tired.  Maybe because today was my third “half marathon” in a row.  Maybe just ’cause.

But I was tired on my trek today.  Nothing over the top.  Just slow and steady.

There were so many terrains and vistas, which kept me motivated.  Ocean views, climb to a mountain gap, narrow dirt trails, green roads (grass covered), limestone rocks to scuttle over, mucky mud to try to skirt, minor roads, cattle, alpacas, sheep, lambs… Today’s hike had it all.  🙂

Alpacas at the start of the hike in Fanore

 

Jim and Cathy (from Minnesota) and I leap-frogged all day – they took this pic of me

 

Black Head – the northwestern-most part of this peninsula

 

Not alone on the trail!

 

Looking back towards Fanore from Black Head

 

A bit of the gnarly trail

 

Gleninagh Castle

 

One of many stiles I climbed over

 

Limestone rock wall

 

Farmhouse – cool to see after climbing a mountain with a trail similar to Lizzie/Bowden Ranch in SLO

 

These two lambs kept a close eye on me

 

Springtime in Ireland

 

Newtown Castle

 

Hazel woodland

 

Tired feet, dirty boot and gaiter – I was so fortunate not to have rain today.  Even with all of the mud, rain would have made today’s trek so much more difficult!

Today’s hike, slightly shorter than yesterday’s at “only” 12 miles, took me first to Doolin Cave and then through farmland to the village of Fanore.  Happily, although the sky looked threatening, no rain today.

Addendum:  Although there was a light drizzle, I headed to O’Connors pub at about 6:30 for a pint and a bowl of chowder.  Thinking I’d be too tired to stay up past 9pm to listen to music, I was surprised when my bartender said the music started at 8pm.  Enjoying my Murphy’s stout and reading my book, I noticed the table next to me receiving a “reserved” sign…and a few minutes later, the band showed up.  What a treat to listen to and chat with the band, who played only a few feet from me.  I mentioned that I sang The Wheels on the Bus, Emmett’s current fave, while hiking today – and they, of course, had to play it!  Later, these two high school students asked if they could join in for a true O’Connors session.  Another fun Irish evening!

View of Cliffs of Moher just outside my BnB

 

Throughout my trek, there are many ruins mixed in with newer buildings

 

A short detour took me to Doolin Cave which boasts the largest stalactite in the world at over seven meters long

 

Stalactite soda straws

 

Heather, found all along the trail

 

Farmhouse

 

Atlantic Ocean with a tower in the distance

 

A waymarker for the Burren Way

 

As the trail meandered and with no one around me, I sang at full volume!

 

The village of Fanore

 

Trad music in O’Connors Pub

Yesterday morning, after a fabulous week of traveling together, I gave Ben, Kait, Grey, and Emmett big hugs and took a taxi, two trains, one bus, and another taxi from Kilkea Castle to Liscannor for the start of Phase 3 of my Irish Adventure.

For this phase, I’m hiking the Burren Way.  Scheduled through Hillwalk Tours, I’m on a weeklong (seven days – which is really six nights with five hiking days 😊) supported self-guided trek in western Ireland.

Today’s 13 mile walk from Liscannor to Doolin took me through the beautiful Cliffs of Moher.  With only a slight drizzle for part of the way, the view was incredible.  The mud…also incredible!  🤣

In my Liscannor hotel, ready to begin my hike

 
Liscannor

 

On the trail, I saw cattle and sheep

 

I couldn’t find a pot o’ gold at the end of the rainbow!

 

Hag’s Head, the beginning of the Cliffs of Moher

 

Signal tower built during Napoleonic times by the British government

 

Mid-hike with Cliffs of Moher in the background

 

Cairns and the cliffs

 

Cliffs of Moher

 

 

 

Tide-pool

 

Rocks…?  They seem to be too small to be a tomb marker…

 

Doonagore Castle, a round 16th-century ‘tower house’

 

These boots (and gaiters!) were made for walking…through lots and lots of mud!

A highlight of our time at Kilkea Castle, we experienced the majesty of owls, hawks, and a falcon on the gorgeous grounds with the magnificent castle as our backdrop.

Bernard, our committed and knowledgeable falconer, spoke passionately in detail as he not only showed us the birds, allowing us to hold all of them, but also educated us on their history, lifestyle, and eating habits.

Owls

 

 

 

 

 

Red-tailed Hawk

 

 

 

 

 

 

Harris Hawk

 

 

 

Falcon

 

 

 

Bernard, our falconer

For two glorious days, we stayed at Kilkea Castle.  Dating back to 1180, Kilkea Castle was once the medieval stronghold of the FitzGerald’s, Earls of Kildare. Now it is a luxurious resort with 180 acres of landscaped gardens, ancient woodland, and a meandering river.

During our stay, we explored the castle grounds, indulged in beverages in the castle keep, and, which I’ll showcase in my next post, experienced the majesty of falconry.

Kilkea Castle

 

 

 

 

Castle Grounds

 

 

Hailstorm!

 

Mullaghreelan Hike

 

 

 

Team photo by selfie extraordinaire Greyson! ❤️

 

Today, I took a tour, along with about 60 other people, to Kilkenny, Wicklow Mountains, Glendalough, and a sheep farm!

In Kilkenny, we explored Kilkenny Castle and climbed the Round Tower at St. Canice’s Cathedral.  Next, we moved into the Wicklow Mountains, viewing the Wicklow Gap from the highest point.  From there, our big bus traveled the winding roads to Glendalough where we toured the Monastic City and hiked to the two lakes.  At our final stop, a sheep farm that has been in the same family’s hands for over four generations, we watched a border collie herd sheep and learned about the farm.  I enjoyed, too, holding a two-week old lamb!

Kilkenny Castle

 

 

 

 
The Round Tower at St. Canice’s Cathedral (121 steps)

 

 
Wicklow Gap

 
Glendalough

 

 

 

 

 

 
Sheep Farm

 

Early Monday morning, I walked to the bus station in Belfast for one of the easiest “transition days” ever!  The Dublin Express to Dublin was quick, efficient, and clean.  Once I arrived in Dublin, I walked only two blocks to a store I found on the app Bounce where I could securely store my luggage for the day.  From there, I meandered around Dublin, following Rick Steves’ audio tour and snapping photos all along the way.  In the afternoon, after lunch and the Irish Whiskey Museum (yum yum!), I retrieved my luggage and hopped onto the tram to Heuston Train Station where I met Ben, Kait, Greyson, and Emmett.  Big smiles and even bigger hugs!

Sarah, our AirBnB host, greeted us at the train station and drove us – including our luggage and the accoutrements needed for a toddler! – to her fabulous home next to Phoenix Park.

Over the next two days, the five of us saw The Book of Kells, Trinity College, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Guinness Storehouse, Christ Church, Dublinia Museum, Dublin Castle, Grafton Street, and St. Stephen’s Green.  Wowza!

Fun – and creative – too, Greyson and I forged our own silver rings at a craft class the second evening!

St. Stephen’s Green

 
Bronze plaque honoring James Joyce (Grafton Street)

 
Ha’Penny Bridge

 
One of many monuments commemorating the struggles for Irish independence along O’Connell Street

 
General Post Office bullet hole

 
Garden of Remembrance

 

 
Trinity College

 
Trinity College Library (Book of Kells photography not allowed)

 

 

 
Guinness Storehouse

 

 

 
With our silver rings!

 
Dublin Castle

 
Magna Carta – Christ Church

 
View of Christ Church from top of Dublinia Museum

For this final set of photos from Belfast, I’m grouping images based on where I visited.

During my four days in this city, in addition to many other places, I visited…

The Titanic Museum

 

 

 
Crumlin Road Gaol

 

 

 
City Hall

 

 
Queen’s University

 

 

 

 
Botanical Gardens

 

 

 
The Dirty Onion

 
The Crown Liquor Saloon…

…where I had my first Guinness!

*Note: Although photos may exist of me dancing to Irish music in a pub, none are on my camera or phone!  🤣

I’m writing this after a long day of touring, walking, and exploring – following a night dealing with jet lag and travel weariness.

Regardless, I want to document how I’m feeling at this time.

This morning, I took a private Political Murals tour of Belfast.  My guide, Joe, did a fantastic job explaining the complexities of the conflict, including the political, economic, and religious contributions.  He also talked in detail about the effects on lives of both Catholics and Protestants.  His stories about his sisters getting shipped off to England, his brother being kneecapped, and going to church with members of the IRA captivated me.  Balanced, he called out the terrorists on both sides of the conflict. 

While he was speaking, I concentrated so hard on understanding his accent that I couldn’t fully process everything – until now. Looking at my photos is giving me the space to reflect and process.

I can’t look at my photos and not think about what I saw in Berlin…similar wall… Or Israel and Gaza… Or…everywhere else in the world divided by power, anger, and terrorism.

When, oh when!, will we ever be able to live together in peace???

Called the “Peace Wall,” it’s really 60 walls separating the Catholics and the Protestants.

This wall on the Catholic side shows how houses have a “grenade cage” to protect homes if a grenade is thrown over the wall.

Gates in the walls are closed every night (around 6:00-7:00 pm) and opened every morning (about 6:30am).  Although there are ways around them, one must drive a meandering route, making it harder for a terrorist to escape.

Murals on the Catholic side…

…and the Protestant side.

A wall of murals on the Catholic side was repainted supporting the Palestinians, which will stay up until there’s a permanent ceasefire.

The Protestants hang Israeli flags and support the Israelis.  Very upsetting is, as Joe said, Protestants will hang Israeli flags along with swastikas!

 

A few days ago, I returned from a FABULOUS trip to one of my favorite cities to visit with family and friends while seeing Fall foliage!

Although my trip to New York started ominously with an unexpected overnight stay in Dallas due to thunderstorms and a canceled flight, everything else was FANTASTIC.

I spent meaningful time with wonderful friends and family, saw gorgeous Fall foliage and beautiful flora, enjoyed Hadestown on Broadway, wandered through museums, gardens, and Central Park, ate lots of ice cream, drank several Manhattans, and played with photography.

Instead of creating a day-by-day blog, I decided to group my posts and photos into these categories.  ❤️

Visiting friends and family is one of the biggest reasons I love New York.  Although I took many photos of friends and family, I’m choosing not to post those photos. Instead, I’ve sent what I feel are the best of those photos to the people themselves.

Here, though, are a few photos others have taken of me!

Storm King Art Center

 

 

Longwood Gardens – much appreciation to those who put up with me and my camera!

 

Eating one of MANY ice creams!!!

 

Walking home on the Sunday night of the NYC Marathon, I saw a few people cheering on the final marathoners at Mile 25.9.  Of course, I had to join in!

There’s nothing like a good Manhattan!  Not only the borough of New York City but also the beverage!

At several Elks Lodges across the country, I’ve ordered a Manhattan.  Some have been pretty good, some not so good.  Sometimes the bartender has needed a lesson in how to make the drink (“I’m a beertender, not a bartender.”). Other times, the drinks have been expertly crafted.

While in Manhattan, I decided to drink Manhattans – and review each drink and experience.  🙂

My first Manhattan was at Tessa Restaurant. I went there on my first Friday in NY.  Given I was solo during the Friday dinner rush, I had to sit at the bar rather than a table. Two of the three people (all friends) sitting next to me were second year med students and their friend, who the day before broke his wrist biking in Central Park, is a second year law student.  The drink itself was really good!  Not too sweet and very tasty.

 

A few nights later, I went to Harvest Kitchen, where the food was excellent but the Manhattan was a bit boring.  I learned, too, that I prefer a straight up Manhattan rather than on the rocks.  My server was a young man from Albania who had been in NY for less than a month. He was on Maui for two years and lost everything to the wildfire. He came to NY to replace his identification, visa, etc, and is working at the restaurant to support himself while in NY. 

 

On Halloween, I chose NOT to watch the parade in Greenwich Village. Although I used to like crowds, I now prefer to avoid them due to COVID and other germs – and the risk of terrorism.
Instead, I walked to Broadway, enjoying the many kids in costumes trick-or-treating at the local businesses.  That evening before seeing the excellent show, Hadestown, I went across the street for a bite and a Manhattan at Hurley’s Irish Pub. I had quite the multi-cultural experience! Mediterranean food (hummus) and an American beverage in an Irish pub! The drink tasted good and didn’t feel very strong…until it did!  Manhattans tend to hit about 20 minutes after I finish the last sip.  I know NOT to order that second drink.

 

The daughters of one of my best friends now live and work in NYC.  With their busy work and school schedules, the best time for us to get together was for happy hour.  At The Horny Ram, I got to not only catch up on their fabulous lives but also have another Manhattan!  This beverage was not my favorite.  Although it had a good cherry, it was mild tasting and a bit boring.  The conversation, though, made the total experience wonderful!

 

I had my final Manhattan on my last night in the City.  My mother’s best friend’s son (my “fifth brother”) and his wife met me in the city at Legasea, so we could have dinner and chat.  The food was delicious, the conversation wonderful, and the drink okay.  For the first time, I considered ordering a second drink, but (wisely!) chose not to.

 

My findings: 

1) Straight up Manhattans are better than on the rocks.

2) I would absolutely return to Tessa and Hurley’s for a Manhattan.

3) Further research shows that although other cities have drinks named after them, having a Manhattan in Manhattan is the BEST!

With Adriana, the professional photographer I toured with in Cusco, Peru, I began learning how to take street photos of people.  As she told me, New York is a great place for street photography!

Many times during my two weeks in New York, I walked around and covertly took photos of others perambulating around the city.  The day after the New York City Marathon, I noticed that MANY people wore their marathon medals while exploring the city.  At first, I slyly took their picture – street photography. 

Then I remembered The 9:09 Project by Mark Parsons, in which the main character returns to the same place at the same time and ASKS if he can take a photo of people walking at that specific time and place.  That gave me the idea to ASK marathoners if I could take their photo.  I know, having WALKED ten marathons, that regardless of the time it takes to finish, anyone who completes a marathon – and especially those wearing a medal the next day – feels PROUD of their accomplishment.  As they should!  Other than one person, everyone agreed – often with glee – to have me take their photo.  One person asked why, and I told the truth – I’m new to photography and wanted to practice taking photos of people on the street.  The partner of another person asked me if she could take a photo of me taking a photo of her marathoner – something to add to their marathon experience!  Another marathoner told me he’s from Michigan and runs to raise money for cancer research at Memorial Sloan Kettering.

The stories, joy, and accomplishment they shared with me while I captured them with their medals made me feel so happy for them!

Marathoners

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Street Photography (non-marathon)

Greenwich Village – this reminds me of a Beatles album cover!

 

Longwood Gardens – I took a couple other photos of the boy in the red plaid jacket and sent them to the boy’s grandmother

 

Central Park saxophonist

 

Central Park – a photo of a photographer with fall colors and cityscape