What do I love doing most (after hugging grandkids and eating ice cream, of course!)?  Hiking to a waterfall!

Today’s trip from Cape Town to Cederberg included an optional hike up to a waterfall.  Yayyyyy!!!

These photos are definitely culled.  There “may” be ones of me at the waterfall in my underwear…and a few of traveling companions in their “natural” bathing suits!

Mango trees roadside

 

Hike to the waterfall – out of ten of us, four climbed the full hike up up up

 

 

Tall Sifiso resting – or, shall I say, allowing us to rest

 

The reward!

 

 

Highlanders Lodge

 

Cederberg at golden hour

 

Wine tasting before dinner at Highlander

Upon deciding to venture to Africa for a safari, I knew from friends that in addition to seeing and photographing animals, I wanted to explore Cape Town and Victoria Falls.  I, therefore, reviewed tours with companies I’ve worked with before and decided on a 22-day adventure with KE Adventure out of England, who books with on-the-ground company Sunway Safaris.  I liked the itinerary and the promised small group experience.

This morning, I met my group.  With ten travelers and two guides, both named Sifiso!, I climbed into our safari truck and headed to the southern-most tip of the African continent.

Our “home away from home” for the next three weeks.

 

After a short stop at Hout Bay, we continued to Cape Point, hiking first to the lighthouse at the cliff top and then down to the Cape of Good Hope.

 

 

 

 

 

On the roadside, wild ostriches greeted us.

 

At Simon’s Town (yes! that’s the name!), we saw penguins.

 

 

The Atlantic Ocean water felt cool and refreshing.

Having read Nelson Mandela’s autobiography and being interested in South African history, I scheduled a tour to Robben Island, the UNESCO World Heritage Site where Mandela spent 18 of his 27 years in prison.

The rock quarry where Mandela worked during his prison term, photographed through the bus window.

 

Penguins on Robben Island.

 

Only one person escaped (twice!) from Robben Island (David Stuurman in 1809 and 1820).

 

The “beds” Mandela and other prisoners slept on.

 

Example of the “mattress” and blanket used by prisoners.

 

Segregated by color, prisoners received food based on their race.

 

Our tour guide was a former prisoner, serving for eight years, some of it with Mandela.  As a young person, he recruited militants for the African National Congress (ANC).  On the outside, he could not get a job.  When the prison opened up to visitors, former prisoners were hired to lead the tours.  He now lives on the Island as a free man and tour guide.

 

The only photo of Mandela while in prison.  The Red Cross came to check out conditions; he was given different clothes to wear so the Red Cross would think the prisoners were being treated well.

 

The corner of the prison courtyard where Mandela buried the original copy of his autobiography.

 

Prison cell.

I wasn’t planning on a private city tour.

Last night, I did my prep work:  I researched on Google what I hadn’t seen that I wanted to see, mapped out my walking route, and downloaded a couple of audio walking tours. 

This morning, though, I spoke with my hotel concierge who told me it wasn’t safe for me to walk my planned route.  He called a cab for me; the driver is also a tour guide.  I showed my guide, Owen, what I had already explored in Cape Town and what I had hoped to see – all by 1:00 pm when I wanted to grab a bite before my Robben Island tour.

What a great experience! Owen drove me to not only the neighborhoods that I had planned to visit but also showed me other sites while explaining the history, culture, and economics of Cape Town.  I’m typing this quickly so I can remember Owen’s commentary!

We started in Bo-Kaap, a neighborhood founded by Muslim Malaysians who were enslaved by the British.  When they were freed, they painted their homes a variety of bright colors to celebrate their freedom.

 

Across the street from the beautifully painted homes are “Cape Flats,” public housing units.  Unhoused people in South Africa can only be moved from encampments if they are given a place to live.  Many are moved to apartments like these.  Due to the conditions, crime in these flats is rampant.

 

District 6 squatters refuse to leave after residents were forcibly removed.  Their legal claim to this land has yet to be adjudicated.  Until the legalities are settled, as long as someone lives here, they cannot be moved.  The unemployment rate in South Africa is over 30%, creating a housing, economic, and cultural crisis.

 

Central Methodist Church near Greenmarket Square is a bastion of acceptance and progressive politics.  The signs on the left speak to current issues, such as LGBTQIA+ rights, supporting vaccinations, and accepting all races.  In fact the sign under the stained glass window of Jesus addresses the fact the the depiction of White Jesus is inaccurate given where he was born.

 

Long Street is a nighttime gathering place.

 

Outside of a church, these reminders of Apartheid remain.

 

The Dutch East India Company, which founded Cape Town as a refreshment station for its India-bound vessels, established Company’s Garden to grow fruit and vegetables for scurvy-ridden sailors. We spoke with a gardener harvesting broad beans, which he let us taste. In addition to Company’s Garden, we meandered around Green Point Urban Park, a central meeting place near the stadium built for the 2010 World Cup.

 

Near the Castle of Good Hope, we walked across the Grand Parade towards Cape Town City Hall where Nelson Mandela gave his first speech following being released from prison after 27 years of incarceration.

 

On the Old Granary Building, Bishop Desmond Tutu wears a Palestinian scarf symbolizing “his decades-long work championing justice for Palestinians,” his foundation said.

I’m off on another wonderful adventure!

Ever since I was a child, I’ve always wanted to go on an African safari.  With the time, resources, and newfound interest in photography, I knew the time had arrived.

Speaking with friends who’ve been to Africa, I researched tour companies, focusing primarily on those that explore big game locations and include Cape Town and Victoria Falls. Ultimately, I selected KE Adventure’s three-week Cape Town to Victoria Falls Classic Safari – with four days added onto the beginning of the trip solo in Cape Town.  I like to do this when I travel so I can get over jet lag and travel weariness before I meet my group.

Preparation for the trip also included reading Nelson Mandela’s autobiography Long Walk to Freedom and the novel Cry, the Beloved Country by Alan Paton.  Additionally, I’m still reading (it’s nearly 1,000 pages!) James Michener’s The Covenant.

So…I’m off to Africa!

 

At my first breakfast, I met two terrific women traveling with another group from England and this sweet South African woman from Joburg (Johannesburg) who was in Cape Town to cheer on her daughter running in the Cape Town Marathon that Sunday.  The South African woman insisted that we have a photo together.

 

With Jayne and her friend, I started exploring Cape Town by taking the Hop On Hop Off bus around the city where I quickly saw the Malaysian neighborhood of Bo-Kaap.

 

Next big stop:  Table Mountain!  My original thought was to hike the mountain solo, but I was warned against doing that.  Instead, I took the cable car up and down and walked all over the top.

 

 

View from the top of Table Mountain – with Robben Island in Table Bay.

 

Anther view from atop Table Mountain.

 

This South African woman, exploring Table Mountain with her adult son, rode the cable car up with me and requested that we take a photo together.  🙂

 

My trusted camera and me on Table Mountain.

 

From the bus, a view of the Twelve Apostles, a series of buttresses on the sea-facing side of Table Mountain.

 

Cape Town Stadium, home of the 2010 FIFA World Cup.

 

Some public art pieces captured while wandering around the city.

 

 

 

This man chose to pose for me while I photographed the mural in the tunnel going under the highway.  To get from my hotel to the waterfront, I walked through this tunnel at least a couple of times a day.

 

Another city mural.

 

Nobel Square pays tribute to South Africa’s four Nobel Peace Prize Laureates: the late Nkosi Albert Luthuli, Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu, former State President FW de Klerk and former President Nelson Mandela.

 

From the Peace and Democracy sculpture, also found in Nobel Square.

 

This buffalo statue is really many separate metal statue pieces placed so that when one looks through a specific square spot, a whole buffalo emerges.

 

Green Point Lighthouse in Cape Town.

 

The Cape Wheel at V&A Waterfront.

 

The wind plays havoc with trees along the coast.

 

When my friend and Live Oak Music Festival Construction Crew Coordinator Dawn heard I was going to Cape Town, she connected me with one of her best friends, Marrie, who now lives in Cape Town.  Marrie and her husband Roger treated me to a delicious lunch and lively conversation about his exploits as a pilot and smuggler.  I’m looking forward to reading his book, Smugger:  A Memoir.

On the one hand, I’m bummed I didn’t take pictures of everyone I visited.  On the other hand, I tried to stay in the moment more on this trip rather than document every detail.  I have a few photos of friends, though, that I’d like to share.  Missing are…way too many people to list!  I send all of you, though, my LOVE – I look forward to seeing you again soon!

Lee captaining his boat – my first adventure on this vessel

 

Judi and Taffi – Judi and I have known each other for over 40 years!

 

Sunset at Qualicum Bay with Pamela

 

Steph and John demonstrating how retirees work hard!

 

Cottage Grove, Oregon, boasts six historic covered bridges many of which are along the nearly sixteen mile Row River National Recreation Trail.  I didn’t walk the full railroad trail, nor did I see all the the historic bridges.  However, I did see…

Currin Bridge, 1925

 

Mosby Creek Bridge, 1920

 

Stewart Bridge, 1930

 

I don’t know the name of this bridge on the Row River Trail, but it definitely retains its railroad roots.

 

A peek at the Sundial Bridge, Redding, California

With a choice between high temperatures inland or cooler weather on the coast, I chose to drive up the coast of California and Oregon before turning eastward to Portland.  From there, I explored two big islands, Bainbridge and Vancouver, and a few smaller islands, Denman, Hornby, Swan.  Thus, I have MANY photos of water!

Sunset at Qualicum Bay

 

Sunset from Judi & Lee’s backyard, Bainbridge Island

 

Niagara Waterfall, Goldstream Provincial Park, Vancouver Island

 

Little Qualicum Falls, Upper and Lower, Vancouver Island

 

Englishman River Falls, Vancouver Island

 

Views of Ocean and Bays

 

Sacramento River, Redding, California

 

Ferries, Hornby Island (British Columbia) and Swan Island (Oregon)

Goats on the roof!!!

Yes, this is a BIG DEAL!  They really eat the grass and hang out on the roof of the Old Country Market, located on the Alberni Highway between Parksville and Qualicum Beach on Vancouver Island.  From May through October, goats live on the roof!

Although Sheila and I hung out with the dogs (Taffi, Indy, Timmy, Benny) of friends, I only have a photo of Taffi.

In Pamela’s car, Sheila jumped from the way back to the back seat, looking quite crowded but also happy to be closer to us.

In Victoria, we left Sheila with Timmy and Benny, along with Pamela’s mother and son, and rode our e-bikes around town.  On the bike trail, I found this sign.

Flora

So much beauty in nature!

Although Sheila and I didn’t hike as much as I thought I might, we enjoyed hiking in…

Florence, Oregon

Forest Park, Portland, Oregon

Bainbridge Islands, Washington

Mount Douglas Park, Victoria, British Columbia

Pacific Rim National Park, Vancouver Island, British Columbia

Hornby Island, British Columbia

 

Wandering around Swan Island Dahlia Farm, near Portland, with Steph and John created a visual treat.

“Public Art” is a big category!  I see murals, sculptures, and knickknacks as public art.

On my drive from Victoria, where Pamela lives, to Little Qualicum Falls Provincial Campground, Pamela gave me a big list of places to explore. One of my favorites, the town of Chemainus, hosts murals upon many of the village’s walls.  Viewers can follow painted yellow footprints to help find various murals.

I found murals elsewhere, including Portland…

…and Redding…

Sculpture, another type of public art, abounds.  Here are some from Seattle…

…and in front of the Parliament building in Victoria…

…and on a street in Victoria…

and Malahat Skywalk on Vancouver Island.

I crossed under this tunnel, painted with graffiti, at Goldstream Provincial Park to view Niagara Falls (Vancouver Island’s version!).

Pamela and I walked around Tofino, Pacific Rim National Park, Denman Island, and Hornby Island, where we saw…

We also saw the magnificent sandcastles competing at Parksville Park!

For three weeks, Sheila, Addie, and I headed up to Vancouver Island to visit my friend Pamela, whom I met five years ago at the Great Synagogue in Budapest.  The adventure included spending wonderful time with friends and family in Dublin, Portland, and Bainbridge Island.

I decided to not include a day-to-day itinerary or travelog for this 3,128 mile trip.  Rather, I’ve grouped my photos by topic:

A few reflections now that I’ve been home for nearly 24 hours…

  • I love traveling!  AND I love my home!  Although Addie is quite comfortable, my home seems almost luxurious in comparison. A big sink, dishwasher, washing machine, clothes dryer, large shower, TVs, reliable internet, couch for cuddling Sheila… I am so fortunate to have both the fun of Addie and the privilege of a wonderful home.
  • Sheila is a great traveler.  She’s flexible, friendly, and fond of exploring.  I hit the jackpot when I adopted her last October.
  • I’m bummed I didn’t take more photos of all of the friends I hung out with during this trip!  I know I tried to stay in the moment and not document every detail, but I wish I had photos of the amazing people I got to see.  Next time, be ready for me to snap your photo!

Anchor:
The anchor for this trip was Phase 2, spending a week with Ben, Kait, Greyson, and Emmett in Dublin and at Kilkea Castle. First and foremost, I LOVE spending time with them! Forging silver rings with Greyson, chasing and snuggling Emmett, exploring Glendalough and Kilkenny with Ben, and chatting and laughing with Kait – definitely highlights of this adventure! Deciding that I wanted to spend some time pre- and post-Dublin/Kilkea, I chose the next phases of this Irish expedition around this anchor.

Irish people:
So fun! So friendly! So talkative! Nearly everyone I met – service people, pub customers, fellow travelers – were helpful, kind, and entertaining. The only somewhat “surly” ones that I had contact with were a few of the younger people working at tourist locations. I’m sure they would much prefer to be elsewhere. Everyone else, though, including most of the other younger people, were terrific.

Music and dancing:
If I had the energy, I could have listened to music and danced every night! As it was, I often went to sleep before the music began. Regardless, I had several nights of music – and a couple nights of dancing. All great fun!

Transportation:
I avoided driving a car for several reasons. First, as a solo traveler I didn’t want to navigate and focus on driving on the left-hand side of the road. Second, I prefer looking out the window and seeing the landscape rather than keeping my eyes on the road or on a map. During this adventure, I took taxis, busses, and trains – and Hillwalk Tours booked rides for me when my accommodation was not near my trail. Also, for my Aran Island excursion, I traveled by ferry and rode an e-bike. Only once was the transportation not as smooth or as quick as I would have liked. When I arrived in Ennis, instead of waiting two hours for the next bus (reduced scheduled on Easter Sunday), I treated myself to a taxi to Liscannor. Learning public transit systems frequently necessitates focus and frustration; in Ireland, I found the systems quite easy and clear.

Beauty:
The natural beauty of this country delights me. Although there are some of the rolling hills with grass and sheep that I imagined, there is also a much more rugged beauty and gorgeous shores, lakes, and rivers. All of this coupled with the rustic archaeological monuments made for a visual feast.

Politics:
Maybe because I started this adventure in Belfast or because politics intrigues me, but I can’t separate the political from the non-political in Ireland. The Troubles/Conflict (depending on one’s perspective) combined with Brexit have created, in my opinion, a tense situation which could erupt under certain conditions. It worries me.

Highlights:
After every trip, I’m asked what was your favorite part or top three favorite parts? That’s always so hard to answer! Below, I share some of my most treasured moments.

Phase 1:
It’s true that I learned a lot during my political murals tour and loved exploring the Giants Causeway. Nevertheless, the most fun I had was Saturday night at a pub listening to trad music and dancing! Since I have no photos from that evening, instead I’m sharing a pic from the Giants Causeway, my first excursion.

Phase 2:
Forging silver rings with Grey, singing (including creating a nana verse for Wheels on the Bus!) with Emmett, day tripping to Kilkenny and Glendalough with Ben, and watching the joy on Kait’s face when she held an owl – these are four of my favorite things!

Phase 3:
The natural beauty of the Burren, along with the sense of accomplishment in completing the trek, created powerful moments for me. Unplugging from podcasts, books, and music turned this walk into a spiritual journey.

Phase 4:
Wandering around Galway, Connemara, and Inis Mór with my camera and lots of relaxed time allowed me to focus on my photography skills. In fact, throughout this trip, I’ve had a blast taking the time to capture images that grab me. Every evening, often in lieu of going out and listening to music, I enjoyed reviewing and editing photos and updating my blog. It’s been one of my cherished memories from my Ireland adventure.

For my final excursion of this adventure, I hopped on the Aran Islands shuttle from Galway City to the ferry, about an hour away, in Rossaveel.  On the ferry, I was in for a wild ride!  Today’s weather was the best it’s been in quite some time (thanks to Storm Kathleen!); I wonder how bumpy the ride is usually out to the Aran Islands!

I visited the largest of the islands, Inis Mór, touring around the sites on a rented e-bike.  What a cool way to see the island!  Upon turning in my bike, I walked to the little village and sat in a pub with four locals for some lunch and a pint.  No need for my book or cellphone to keep me occupied while eating – these four gentlemen were quite entertaining!  I learned a couple very important lessons.  First, pick a grey horse to place, especially if it’s wearing the number 5.  Also, in Ireland a pint is 20 ozs, a shot is 1.2 ozs, and a glass of wine is 6 ozs.  🤣

My first view of the island from the ferry dock

 

I saw horses, donkeys, and cattle on my bike ride

 

This time, I leap-frogged with two couples from Toronto so we traded photo taking

 

Cairns!

 

A mix of old and new houses on the island

 

Old home

 

I parked my bike and hiked up to Dún Aonghasa, the largest of the prehistoric stone forts of the Aran Islands. Perilously perched on a sheer sea-cliff, Dún Aonghasa defiantly faces the Atlantic Ocean.

 

Sitting safely away from the cliff’s edge for this photo op

 

Two young women from a group of college-aged students from South Africa decided to cool off a bit

 

While waiting for the ferry to return us to Galway, a man pulled out his accordion and this couple danced (click on the photo for a short video)

 

A few minutes later, the man changed his shoes and treated us to Irish dancing (click on photo for the video)