The Meseta: A vast plateau between Burgos and León. A few pilgrims avoid the Meseta for its lack of trees and shade and often stark vistas. I, however, LOVED walking the Meseta. The openness, the springtime beauty of the flowers and fields, the time and space allowing one’s mind to wander and ponder….all of it made this part of the Camino a meaningful and powerful experience for me.
Some of my many thoughts considered while meandering on the Meseta:
Favorite hill climb on the Meseta: When I first really got into hiking, I HATED hiking up hills. I consoled myself by thinking that I could stop anywhere at any time to catch my breath before continuing the climb – and that there would be a summit soon. As I became a stronger hiker, hills weren’t my favorite but I managed to do fine on them. On this Camino, I ADORE hills! It began on the final hill heading into Los Arcos. Now, I become the Energizer Bunny on a hill, smiling the whole way up. The climb up to Alto de Mostelares, just after Castrojeriz, was dreaded by some – and loved by ME! Who woulda thunk it??!!
Best blister care: Compeed and a safety pin! My legs and body feel very strong and not sore at all. My feet, though, developed a few blisters after the first week or so of walking. One day, the blister on my left second toe hurt so much it began annoying my big toe. The tape in my head kept reminding me that one should never burst a blister as an infection may ensue. However, I used my safety pin to terrific relief and now firmly believe in the power of Compeed PLUS safety pins to relieve blister pain.
Best hiking shirt: It’s a tie between Minke’s Patagonia hooded, long-sleeved, thumb-hole shirt and my magic blue breathable, adjustable sleeved hiking shirt!
Sentence completed before it even started: For dinner, we often have the Pilgrim Menu, consisting of a starter, a main dish, a dessert, bread, wine, and water. Trout is sometimes offered as the fish main course. I enjoy eating trout, but I don’t like to see its head on my plate. Minke and I are so in-sync after traveling the Camino together for nearly 400 miles (adding in Paris, rest days, and wandering), that we not only are able to complete each other’s sentences but, when I silently hand her my trout plate and look away, she removes the head and returns my plate. ❤️
Most bells: In Carrion de los Condes on May 8 at about 6:10 pm, I was lying on my bed reading a book, when the bells at the church outside our window kept ringing – nonstop. Curious, I looked at my phone and saw that the smoke was white – a new Pope was chosen! Minke hopped out of the bathtub (her favorite place to relax after a day’s walk when a tub is available) and threw on some clothes, so we could walk around the village to watch and listen to bells tolling throughout the small village.
Most interesting translation: According to Google Translate, Calzadilla de la Cueza means “cook’s underpants.” Perhaps not surprisingly, Calzadilla de la Cueza provides the worst coffee we’ve had so far on the Camino.
Best communal lounging area: In the sweet town of Castrojeriz, we stayed at La Posada de Castrojeriz, a small hostal with a beautiful covered atrium and comfortable chairs, a perfect place to read, relax, and/or chat.
Most annoying on the Camino: Oftentimes, the Camino is shared by both walkers and cyclists. Annoying and a bit scary are cyclists who quietly sneak up on you without either a verbal or bell warning.
Warmest welcome: Upon arriving in León, we were cordially greeted at a tent by friendly senior volunteers, wearing neon vests with shirts festooned with official patches. They stamped our Pilgrim passports, gave us a lollipop, and provided directions on a paper map to our hotel and local attractions. What a sweet welcome!
Now, it’s time for a rest day to relax, refresh, and enjoy this beautiful city!
Stage 13: Burgos to Hornillos del Camino (14.3 miles)
Stage 14: Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz (14.7 miles)
Stage 15: Castrojeriz to Fromista (16.9 miles)
Stage 16: Fromista to Carrion de los Condes (14 miles)
Stage 17: Carrion de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza (12.8 miles)
Stage 18: Calzadilla de Cueza to Sahagun (14.7 miles)
Stage 19: Sahagun to El Burgo Ranero (12.7 miles)
Stage 20: El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas (15 miles)
Stage 21: Mansilla de las Mulas to León (21.3 miles)
The description of the wide open plains says you have a prairie eye, one that loves to see the stretch of the landscape, is not closed in, sees the wind. Such a gift to walk with you. Thanks.
Kathy, what a beautiful comparison between the prairie and the Meseta! Thank you! So glad to have you alongside me on this journey.
Love is when a friend knows their role is to decapitate your dinner for you 😂
Oh, so true! 🤣🤣
Oh Leon is great! Of course you won’t miss the stained glass windows in the cathedral! If you have time tour Casa Botines, a residence and retail space designed by Gaudi, now a museum dedicated to him. If you are at all interested in his architecture and life, it’s worth a visit.
Congrats on the accomplishment of all the miles so far–you’re in the final stretch!! Galicia will seem like a piece of cake…I don’t remember any major hills. And it’s so beautiful, although the last stages you did, esp stage 14 are similarly beautiful. And wonderful food–time to trade your trout for some pulpo/octopus!
I’ve had a great rest day in León! I agree – the Cathedral is gorgeous! The Gaudi Museum was closed to non-Spanish speakers today, except the first floor exhibits… I really enjoyed viewing the Basilica de St Isidoro. Gorgeous frescoes and paintings!
I think there are a couple more big hills coming…hopefully, the rain will stop by the time we get to them…
Right–San Isidorio! We stayed in a former convent building that backed up to it. And fingers crossed about less rain coming up. Unfortunately, that’s how Galicia gets to be so green…
The green is beautiful! We’ve been very fortunate with weather…other than the BIG rainstorm, we’ve only had drizzles and sprinkles a few times.