Author: Lisa

For my final excursion of this adventure, I hopped on the Aran Islands shuttle from Galway City to the ferry, about an hour away, in Rossaveel.  On the ferry, I was in for a wild ride!  Today’s weather was the best it’s been in quite some time (thanks to Storm Kathleen!); I wonder how bumpy the ride is usually out to the Aran Islands!

I visited the largest of the islands, Inis Mór, touring around the sites on a rented e-bike.  What a cool way to see the island!  Upon turning in my bike, I walked to the little village and sat in a pub with four locals for some lunch and a pint.  No need for my book or cellphone to keep me occupied while eating – these four gentlemen were quite entertaining!  I learned a couple very important lessons.  First, pick a grey horse to place, especially if it’s wearing the number 5.  Also, in Ireland a pint is 20 ozs, a shot is 1.2 ozs, and a glass of wine is 6 ozs.  🤣

My first view of the island from the ferry dock

I saw horses, donkeys, and cattle on my bike ride

This time, I leap-frogged with two couples from Toronto so we traded photo taking

Cairns!

A mix of old and new houses on the island

Old home

I parked my bike and hiked up to Dún Aonghasa, the largest of the prehistoric stone forts of the Aran Islands. Perilously perched on a sheer sea-cliff, Dún Aonghasa defiantly faces the Atlantic Ocean.

Sitting safely away from the cliff’s edge for this photo op

Two young women from a group of college-aged students from South Africa decided to cool off a bit

While waiting for the ferry to return us to Galway, a man pulled out his accordion and this couple danced (click on the photo for a short video)

A few minutes later, the man changed his shoes and treated us to Irish dancing (click on photo for the video)

Upon finishing my Connemara tour late yesterday, I began exploring Galway City by wandering around with no particular destination in mind.  Today, I followed an audio tour which highlighted some of the key sites in the city.  Tour guide Derek Spillane provided clear walking instructions and intriguing stories.

The city has grown on me.  When I first arrived, I was a bit unimpressed.  Albeit, I had finished the Burren Way the day before and traveled by three busses to get here.  I think, therefore, that I was perhaps a tad travel tired and weary.  Hey, it happens!  🙂

My walk started both days from Eyre Square

Irish writer Oscar Wilde and the Estonian writer Eduard Vilde sitting on a bench – although they never actually met

The Latin Quarter where most tourists hang out – and where I might have had a beverage…or two…

So many murals!  Two of my favorites.

Walking along the canal with the Cathedral in the distance

The lighting in this Cathedral impressed me – and the Cathedral itself was beautiful yet understated – pretty and amazing

After the Cathedral, I continued on the canal trail

Old wall of the city

The reason Ireland is so green…

To escape the rain, I stepped over Remy, the St. Bernard guarding Monroe’s Tavern

Monroe’s Tavern

Sometimes I don’t make it easy on myself.  Tonight, after a FABULOUS day exploring Connemara, I realized I had 144 photos to review! 🤣

This morning with five other intelligent, kind, and fun tourists, Mike – our driver and tour guide – took us in a small bus to the region of Connemara.  We stopped at multiple places to take pictures, discuss the flora and fauna, and learn about the lifestyle and culture of those living in this region of Ireland. 

What surprised me the most is how my expectation of Ireland is so different from the reality.  Before this trip, I thought Ireland = green rolling hills.  Although I’ve seen these, I’ve also seen almost desert-like landscapes.  In some locales, the soil is so thin, nothing grows except, perhaps, a bit of grass.  However, the sheep and cows eat the meager grass, leaving brown, almost barren, vistas.

Connemara has many lakes, all of which ultimately flow into Galway and the Atlantic Ocean

Green – but not the rolling hills I incorrectly thought I’d see throughout Ireland 🙂

Connemara is Irish for “Inlets of the Sea”

Connemara ponies, a specialized breed, are known for their athleticism, versatility and good disposition

Although we had the option to spend three hours hiking Diamond Hill in Connemara National Park, the high winds, a remnant of Storm Kathleen, convinced the six of us to choose Option 2:  Kylemore Abbey

“Kylemore Castle was built in the late 1800s by Mitchell Henry MP, a wealthy businessman, and liberal politician. Henry poured his life’s energy into creating an estate that would showcase what could be achieved in the remote wilds of Connemara. Today Kylemore Abbey is owned and run by the Benedictine community who have been in residence here since 1920.” [https://www.kylemoreabbey.com/about]

Kylemore Victorian Walled Gardens

Castle grounds

In Kylemore’s Gothic Church, marble pillars from each of the four marble regions of Ireland:  green from Connemara, black from Kilkenny, red from Cork and white from Tyrone

Kylemore apple pie with warm custard – recommended by multiple people!

Hahaha!

On the Quiet Man Bridge, used in the 1960’s John Wayne movie of the same name

Phase 4 of my Ireland adventure blew in with named storm Kathleen.  Rain and lots of gusty winds solidified my resolve for today to be a “zero day” – a day of rest and relaxation.

After a wonderful breakfast at my inn in Corofin, the proprietor dropped me off in the village to catch my bus to Ennis.  Soon, my bus to Galway arrived.  In Galway, I figured out how to get a physical bus pass and which bus line to take from Galway to Salthill, the outlying beach community where I’m staying.

The Nest Boutique Hostel, my home for Phase 4, includes a friendly atmosphere, warm common area (where I’m sitting as I type this), a cafe, a kitchen, and my single en-suite bedroom.  Perfect!

Sipping tea in the hostel’s cafe while firming my plans for this phase

I ventured out in the wind, thinking I might walk the promenade

This little woman’s family helped her to their car so she wouldn’t blow away

Deciding the wind was too strong, I popped into another cafe for more tea and a cookie…then returned to my hostel for a nap.  Following my nap and a pint and chowder at a pub, I walked down to the promenade at sunset to be greeted by a rainbow.

Salthill is renowned for its captivating promenade and numerous sandy beaches, creating a fun environment – when it’s not stormy

Sunset from Salthill promenade 🙂

Sitting in a cafe, sipping tea, resting my legs and toes, relaxing a bit…

Decided to write down my reflections on my trek.  🙂

Day hikes:
When considering hiking the Burren Way, my initial excitement turned to mild concern. However, when I broke it down from 70 miles total to five nice day hikes, I felt much more confident. I’ve completed solo day hikes throughout the US and Europe, so doing five consecutive day hikes seemed much more manageable than one massive hike.

Navigation:
I used three tools to navigate the trail. First, I used Hillwalk Tours’ detailed route notes. Next, I set my Fitbit to measure in kilometers rather than miles. This way, if the route notes said turn left in 350 meters, I could quickly gauge the distance by using my Fitbit. Finally, Hillwalk provided the route on the app GAIA, which uses GPS technology to guide the user. Whenever I was a bit confused or unsure, I’d check GAIA to confirm I was on the proper trail.

Varied scenery:
What a vast variety of landscapes I saw! Cliffs, karst limestone, hazel trees, mossy rocks, plateaus, rivers, turloughs, lakes, flowers breaking out of their winter slumber… So much to see! I thought Ireland would be mainly rolling green hills. I saw them, of course, and much much more!

Weather:
As I type this in the cafe connected to my hostel in Salthill, Galway, Storm Kathleen blows frantically while dumping buckets of rain on the already soaked land. I was SO FORTUNATE to have almost perfect weather while trekking. Even with a bit of wind and rain for the first half of yesterday’s hike, for the most part, I had cool yet dry and calm weather.

People:
After the crowds of Belfast and Dublin, I saw so few people on my hike (other than Cliffs of Moher, of course!). The people I did meet along the trails, at my hotels, in the pubs were all wonderful to chat with. Some were tourists, many were locals, all were kind, friendly, and helpful.

Gear:
I’m trying to think if there’s anything I wish I brought that I didn’t bring… Perhaps a better raincoat…? Mine is rain resistant to a point. After a bit, water seeps through. Although I brought a poncho, I found the pockets in my raincoat much more practical. Also, when the weather necessitated it, I could easily enclose my camera in my coat and retrieve it once the shower ended.  As for gear I brought that I wish I left at home, I only used one trekking pole, which kept my other hand free to grab my camera, hold the route notes, etc.  I didn’t use the compass or binoculars which live in my backpack.  I loved having a baseball cap for general conditions and a knit hat and gloves for those cold mornings and late afternoons.  And gaiters!  OMG!  My waterproof hiking boots coupled with gaiters made the mucky mud much easier to traverse!

Photos:
Now, to try to pick out my favorite photo from each day… 🙂  I think the five I selected showcase the variety and beauty, both natural and humanmade, that I experienced on my journey.

Day 1:  Liscannor to Doolin

Day 2:  Doolin to Fanore

Day 3:  Fanore to Ballyvaughan

Day 4:  Ballyvaughan to Carran

Day 5:  Carran to Corofin

During the past five days, I’ve walked over 70 miles!

Today’s trek, although the shortest (“only” 13.25 miles), was also the rainiest.  I guess the weather fairies decided I needed to experience the rain and wind of Ireland to make my hike complete.

The vista at the start of my final day of trekking – so many colors!

Turlough – along with my little yellow companion

(A turlough is a seasonal or periodic water body found mostly in limestone karst areas of Ireland, west of the River Shannon)

Hazel woodlands

Triple walled cliff fort of Cahercommaun

Creevagh Wedge Tomb (I had to climb over three rock walls and through a field to find it)

Parknabinnia Wedge Tomb – located on the side of the road in Commons North

Yep, it was quite windy today (click on the photo for a quick video)

Chatting with a local woman in the pub tonight, she told me these are goats and not sheep 🙂

Ah!  A waterfall flowing into Lough Inchiquin!  (Click on photo for a link to my waterfall video.)

The end of the trail!

Seventy miles completed and still smiling!

Today’s 13 mile hike from Ballyvaughan to Carran was so much EASIER than yesterday’s trek from Fanore to Ballyvaughan!  Not only did the weather, although overcast, stay dry and mild, but also the climbs and trail were so much smoother than yesterday’s.

The scenery was rocky at times with lots of big boulders

Abundant limestone

Limestone landscape dotted with windswept trees

The reason I take off my boots before entering my hotel and put them on just before exiting

“Bog road” with black shale rock in the trail

Peat, a scarce commodity in the Burren, is dried and used as heating material

The lush green slopes of the small valley of Lissylisheen

A much less muddy trail – rock walls on the sides

6,000-year-old Poulnabrone Portal Tomb, the most famous dolmen in Ireland

Flags at the entrance to Caherconnell Stone Fort – no British or Northern Ireland flag…

Sheepdog demonstration at Caherconnell Stone Fort – four border collies each responding to her own voice commands and whistles – I can see why border collies need work to do – it’s bred into them

A ewe and her twin lambs – same pregnancy with the same ram

Caherconnell Stone Fort, one of three ringforts on today’s expedition

Maybe because I didn’t sleep well last night, even though I was tired.  Maybe because today was my third “half marathon” in a row.  Maybe just ’cause.

But I was tired on my trek today.  Nothing over the top.  Just slow and steady.

There were so many terrains and vistas, which kept me motivated.  Ocean views, climb to a mountain gap, narrow dirt trails, green roads (grass covered), limestone rocks to scuttle over, mucky mud to try to skirt, minor roads, cattle, alpacas, sheep, lambs… Today’s hike had it all.  🙂

Alpacas at the start of the hike in Fanore

Jim and Cathy (from Minnesota) and I leap-frogged all day – they took this pic of me

Black Head – the northwestern-most part of this peninsula

Not alone on the trail!

Looking back towards Fanore from Black Head

A bit of the gnarly trail

Gleninagh Castle

One of many stiles I climbed over

Limestone rock wall

Farmhouse – cool to see after climbing a mountain with a trail similar to Lizzie/Bowden Ranch in SLO

These two lambs kept a close eye on me

Springtime in Ireland

Newtown Castle

Hazel woodland

Tired feet, dirty boot and gaiter – I was so fortunate not to have rain today.  Even with all of the mud, rain would have made today’s trek so much more difficult!

Today’s hike, slightly shorter than yesterday’s at “only” 12 miles, took me first to Doolin Cave and then through farmland to the village of Fanore.  Happily, although the sky looked threatening, no rain today.

Addendum:  Although there was a light drizzle, I headed to O’Connors pub at about 6:30 for a pint and a bowl of chowder.  Thinking I’d be too tired to stay up past 9pm to listen to music, I was surprised when my bartender said the music started at 8pm.  Enjoying my Murphy’s stout and reading my book, I noticed the table next to me receiving a “reserved” sign…and a few minutes later, the band showed up.  What a treat to listen to and chat with the band, who played only a few feet from me.  I mentioned that I sang The Wheels on the Bus, Emmett’s current fave, while hiking today – and they, of course, had to play it!  Later, these two high school students asked if they could join in for a true O’Connors session.  Another fun Irish evening!

View of Cliffs of Moher just outside my BnB

Throughout my trek, there are many ruins mixed in with newer buildings

A short detour took me to Doolin Cave which boasts the largest stalactite in the world at over seven meters long

Stalactite soda straws

Heather, found all along the trail

Farmhouse

Atlantic Ocean with a tower in the distance

A waymarker for the Burren Way

As the trail meandered and with no one around me, I sang at full volume!

The village of Fanore

Trad music in O’Connors Pub

Yesterday morning, after a fabulous week of traveling together, I gave Ben, Kait, Grey, and Emmett big hugs and took a taxi, two trains, one bus, and another taxi from Kilkea Castle to Liscannor for the start of Phase 3 of my Irish Adventure.

For this phase, I’m hiking the Burren Way.  Scheduled through Hillwalk Tours, I’m on a weeklong (seven days – which is really six nights with five hiking days 😊) supported self-guided trek in western Ireland.

Today’s 13 mile walk from Liscannor to Doolin took me through the beautiful Cliffs of Moher.  With only a slight drizzle for part of the way, the view was incredible.  The mud…also incredible!  🤣

In my Liscannor hotel, ready to begin my hike

Liscannor

On the trail, I saw cattle and sheep

I couldn’t find a pot o’ gold at the end of the rainbow!

Hag’s Head, the beginning of the Cliffs of Moher

Signal tower built during Napoleonic times by the British government

Mid-hike with Cliffs of Moher in the background

Cairns and the cliffs

Cliffs of Moher

Tide-pool

Rocks…?  They seem to be too small to be a tomb marker…

Doonagore Castle, a round 16th-century ‘tower house’

These boots (and gaiters!) were made for walking…through lots and lots of mud!

A highlight of our time at Kilkea Castle, we experienced the majesty of owls, hawks, and a falcon on the gorgeous grounds with the magnificent castle as our backdrop.

Bernard, our committed and knowledgeable falconer, spoke passionately in detail as he not only showed us the birds, allowing us to hold all of them, but also educated us on their history, lifestyle, and eating habits.

Owls

Red-tailed Hawk

Harris Hawk

Falcon

Bernard, our falconer

For two glorious days, we stayed at Kilkea Castle.  Dating back to 1180, Kilkea Castle was once the medieval stronghold of the FitzGerald’s, Earls of Kildare. Now it is a luxurious resort with 180 acres of landscaped gardens, ancient woodland, and a meandering river.

During our stay, we explored the castle grounds, indulged in beverages in the castle keep, and, which I’ll showcase in my next post, experienced the majesty of falconry.

Kilkea Castle

Castle Grounds

Hailstorm!

Mullaghreelan Hike

Team photo by selfie extraordinaire Greyson! ❤️